BASF MasterSeal Traffic Systems Overview
BASF
MasterSeal Traffic Systems (formerly Sonoguard and Conipur sytems) are fluid
applied traffic-grade waterproofing systems for all kinds of construction.
The most common applications include high-traffic pedestrian walkways,
vehicular parking garages, stadiums, walkways, balcony decks and concrete
floor areas which need to be waterproof and chemically resistant. Four
systems are specified, but other combinations are possible.
MasterSeal Traffic 1500 System
(formerly Sonoguard): A lower-cost polyurethane waterproofing,
traffic-bearing membrane systems for vehicular and pedestrian areas.
MasterSeal 1500 products are solvent based, have some odor and are not VOC
compliant in some areas. It’s a longer cure-time system. Available in 40+
colors. MasterSeal Traffic 1500 waterproofing systems are composed of:
Primers:
See note below.
Basecoat:
MasterSeal M 200,
a one-component, moisture-curing polyurethane. Lowest cost basecoat, but longest
curing.
Topcoat:
MasterSeal TC 225, a UV resistant one-component aliphatic moisture-curing
polyurethane. Lowest cost topcoat, but longest curing. Available pretinted in
Tan, Gray and Charcoal.
or Topcoat:
MasterSeal TC 225 Topcoats. Includes a tintable version with options for 40 standard colors and 470
custom. This is a UV resistant 2-component aliphatic moisture-curing polyurethane. Very Durable.
MasterSeal Traffic 2000 System
(formerly Conipur II): A hybrid system of Traffic 1500 and 2500. It uses
a lower cost, slower curing basecoat with a high-performance quick-curing
chemically resistant. Suitable for all deck types, but generally used on parking
garages. Available in 2 colors. MasterSeal Traffic 2000 is composed of:
Primer:
See note below.
Basecoat:
MasterSeal M 200 – a one component, moisture-curing polyurethane.
Intermediate Coat:
MasterSeal TC 275 – a two-component fast curing aromatic polyurethane
topcoat with outstanding mechanical properties, including high tensile strength,
and excellent tear and abrasion resistance. TC 295 can also be used in the
intermediate coat.
Topcoat:
MasterSeal TC 295 – a UV resistant high-performance, two component,
aliphatic, polyaspartic modified, high-solids, polyurethane. Available
pre-tinted in Gray and Charcoal.
MasterSeal Traffic 2500 System (formerly Conipur I):
Uses a fast-setting two-component reactive-curing mechanism for both the
basecoat and topcoat layers. It has a very low odor and is VOC compliant in all
areas. The topcoat is very chemical resistant. Suitable for all deck types.
Available in 2 colors. It’s the fastest curing (quickest return to service) yet highest cost system.
MasterSeal Traffic 2500 is composed of:
Primer:
MasterSeal P 255 2-part fast cure, where required.
Basecoat:
MasterSeal M 265—a two-component fast-curing polyurethane base coat with
outstanding mechanical properties, including excellent elongation.
Intermediate Coat:
MasterSeal TC 275 a two-component fast-curing aromatic polyurethane topcoat
with outstanding mechanical properties, including high tensile strength and
excellent tear and abrasion resistance. Not UV resistant. TC 295 can also be
used in the intermediate coat.
Topcoat:
MasterSeal TC 295 (exterior applications) – a UV resistant high-performance,
two-component aliphatic, high-solids urethane waterproofing membrane designed as
a topcoat for the MasterSeal Traffic 2500. Available pre-tinted in Gray and
Charcoal.
MasterSeal Traffic 2530 System (formerly Conipur E):
A fluid applied epoxy/polyurethane waterproofing system comprised of a flexible
polyurethane base coat and a semi-rigid epoxy topcoat. MasterSeal Traffic 2530
uses fast setting, two-component reactive curing mechanisms. It meets VOCs in
all areas and has very low odor. MasterSeal Traffic 2530 is comprised of:
Primer:
MasterSeal P 255 2-part fast cure, where required.
Basecoat:
MasterSeal M 265 is a two component fast curing polyurethane basecoat with
outstanding mechanical properties including excellent elongation.
Topcoat:
MasterSeal 350 is a two-component fast curing epoxy topcoat with limited
movement capability and outstanding abrasion resistance.
Primers: The
systems above are self priming to new plywood and newly cured concrete (dust
free). All old surfaces and any chalky surface should be primed. Primer should
be use when re-top-coating. Three primer options are available:
MasterSeal P 173 (formerly 733): Small 1-pint cans for small area. A
one-component solvent-based primer and sealer. For use with Polyurethane Caulk,
Sealants and Traffic coatings.
MasterSeal P 220, (formerly #770): A two-component water-based epoxy primer
and sealer. Most expensive product.
MasterSeal P 222 (formerly #772): A one-component solvent-based primer and
sealer.
MasterSeal P 255, (formerly #78): A two-component polyurethane-based
fast-cure adhesive primer. Smaller kit, least expensive.
Application Notes:
Cold Weather Installation Notes
Field Adhesion Testing
Recoating Recommendations
Architectural Details:
Dynamic Crack Details
<1" Expansion Joint Details
1-2" Wide Expansion Joint Details
Plywood Seam Details
Wall Bearing Slab Detail
System Details:
Pedestrian Deck System, Florida State Approved
Light Vehicular Traffic System
Heavy Duty Traffic System
Extra Heavy Duty Traffic System
Under Thin-Set (Tile) Applications
Installation: See the balcony waterproofing
Wood Based Deck or Concrete Deck
examples at the bottom of this page.
For quick estimates of quantities, try
our
Deck Restoration Materials Calculator
Questions? Email
sales@bestmaterials.com
Or Call
1-800-474-7570 / 602-272-8128
You'll get a
prompt response !
|
Below grade
waterproofing products
Products and Pricing:
Deck Restoration Materials Calculator
Popular Individual Products:
Primers:
MasterSeal
P 255 (formerly 78) (2-component polyurethane)
MasterSeal
P (formerly
770) (2-part, water-based epoxy)
MasterSeal
P 220 (formerly
722) (1-part, solvent based, low cost)
MasterSeal
P 173 (formerly
733) (1-part, solvent based, polyurethane primer, 1-pint)
Basecoats:
MasterSeal M 200
Basecoats (easiest to use)
MasterSeal
T 265
Basecoat (2-part quick cure)
Topcoats:
Conipur Topcoats (super durable, quick-cure)
Sonoguard Topcoats
(easy to use)
Aggregate
Items:
All Aggregate Products
Rubber
Granules / Aggregates
Sand
Aggregates
Roofing Granules
For pedestrian waterproofing applications, we recommend our
rubber
aggregate for its resilience, flexibility, lower surface deck
temperature, low moisture absorption, and provides an excellent feel & wear.
For a
sanded finish on pedestrian decks, we recommend
#2/16
deck-coat sand. Its a fine grade which is washed and kiln dried
for the best quality sanded finish decks.
For
vehicular traffic areas, we recommend the coarser
#2/12
deck-coat sand for enhanced wear resistance and greater slip/skid
resistance.
Deck Repair Products:
Concrete
Repair (various concrete crack repair items)
Wood Deck Repair (quick-set wood deck repair)
Application Equipment & Supplies:
(see our other sections for additional items)
Blowers
Brushes
& Chip Brushes
Buckets
Cleaners, surface precleaners
Clean-up Solvents
(restricted shipping)
Concrete Blades and Grinders
Concrete
Surface Repair / Feathering
(SonoSkim)
Deck Joint / Seam Materials
(seam
reinforcement tape)
Deck Railing
Hardware
Deck Post Flashing Hardware
Edge Metal
(see other types under "Metal
Goods" link)
Fabrics:
4" wide
detail
More options
Grinders/Sanders
Mixers
Rags
Roller Covers
Roller Frames
Screwdrivers, Collated/Automatic,
Electric
Squeegees
Walkpads & Deck Pavers
Similar
Cement and Asphalt Surface Coating Systems:
Concrete Sealants, Coatings & Stains (not waterproofing grade)
Concrete Repair and Restoration Products
Epoxy Floor Coatings: Chemical resistant coatings, ESD rated, for
food processing
areas, basements, garage floor, airplane hangers, chemical storage,
etc.
Rhino Top --
Recommended for sport surfaces, athletic courts, gaming courts,
handicap ramps, pool decks, cement walkways, school walkways and
other
concrete or black top surfaces. (This is not a waterproofing grade product).
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION & RESOURCES:
Users should
read through this information BEFORE ordering.
More Details:
Sonoguard General Guidelines
Dynamic Crack Details
<1" Expansion Joint Details
1-2" Wide Expansion Joint Details
Plywood Seam Details
General Use Guidelines:
(please read)
Sonoguard Product Specification
Maintenance & Care Information:
Deck-Maintenance.pdf
Product Data Sheet & Details:
Conipur
(Low VOC, high-traffic, chemical resistant, low-temp application)
Conipur
295 Topcoat (quick-cure, high toughness, low VOC)
Sonoguard Data Sheet (ICBO, Class-A fire rated, easy to apply)
Where
substrate adhesion is questionable, primers should be used.
Primer-733 is an easy to use
one-component solvent based sealant primer for metal, wood and coated
surfaces.
Red all MSDS
sheets before using materials. The illustrations below are intended as a general guide and not a replacement for
factory procedures. Single component systems need to be applied in
warmer weather (60F+ is best). Practice your technique first.
Basic
Process for Waterproofing Balconies:
We recommend the Sonoguard deck
coating waterproofing
system together with rubber aggregate for new applicators. It is easier, faster and less prone to
problems than other systems. Rubber aggregate systems have many
benefits over sand (greater elasticity of finished system, cooler
decks, rubber does not sink into basecoat, topcoats last longer over
rubber, ease of repair and touch-ups). On the other hand, sand decks
will have a more consistent surface appearance.
Troubleshooting Guide.
Concrete Balconies (old or new) (wood decks
are below):
1. OLD Decks: Remove and scrape away all old loose or cracked
coatings, caulking and sealants. It is especially important to
remove ALL silicones or silicone residues.
2. Pressure wash concrete, using 3000 psi minimum washer.
Remove all loose surface materials or old coatings and any oil
based stains. Let dry 1 to 2 days.
3.
Expansion Joints and Cracks:
Dynamic Crack Details
<1" Expansion Joint Details
1-2" Wide Expansion Joint Details
4.
Be sure final the concrete surface has some "texture". Smooth
surfaces will need to be blasted to create a good bonding surface.
As an alternative, you will need to use epoxy 770 primer using a
1/4" nap phenolic core roller. (All new concrete must be fully cured
before work begins). Primers, if needed, are applied just before
base coat and only need to dry tack free.
Sonoguard 770 Epoxy Primer Info
1/4" Nap
Phenolic Core Roller Cover Info
5.
Caulk & Seal: Prime all metal surfaces using 733 primer before
caulking. Use NP-1 or Novalink to fill any big holes or cracks. Let
sealant cure 24-72 hours.
733
Primer Info
NP-1
Product Info
6.
If needed in cricket areas, apply 4" WEBSEAL at the corners,
deck-to-wall interfaces and all other high stress leak-prone areas.
Webseal Product Info
Webseal
Roller Tool Product Info
7.
Bridge all deep field cracks, joints and flashing areas by apply 4"
white fiberglass 20x20 mesh tape embedded in Sonoguard basecoat or
NP1 sealant. Use a 3-course process to hide seams. This is much
like taping a drywall joint wherein you taper joint to adjacent
surfaces.
NP1
Product Info
Fiberglass Webbing Info
8.
Let NP-1 or basecoat / taped areas cure a minimum of 24 hours.
9.
Blow off surface and work area using a high power gas blower.
10. Remove and y skin and pre-mix Basecoat 5 minutes with a
drill and
mixer. Do not whip air into coating. Apply Sonoguard Base Coat
at 2 to 2-1/2 gallons per 100 sqft. using a 1/4" notched squeegee,
then back-roll to smooth out using a phenolic core (solvent proof)
1/4" nap roller.
Hint: First
apply basecoat to all perimeter edge areas and up the edge of all
flashings using a disposable brush.
Hint: For highly sloped surfaces order
"Flash Slope" basecoat to prevent excess running of basecoat.
Sonoguard Self Leveling Basecoat Product Info
Notched Squeegee Product Info
1/4" Nap
Phenolic Core Roller Cover Info
Disposable Brush Info
11. Within about 20 minutes, while material is wet, broadcast
rubber granules at rate of ~ 20 lbs per 100 sqft. (fully cover all
of base coat with a full layer). Broadcast by throwing it out by
hand.
Rubber Granule Info. Do not roll after applying.
IF
USING SAND: A second basecoat must be applied after the first
basecoat has cured, and the sand is broadcast into the 2nd layer. Do
not put sand into the first basecoat layer. The second layer only
needs to be thick enough to adhere sand (about 1 gallon per 100 sq.ft.)
Do not roll after applying.
12. Mark off area with Caution tape to keep off traffic
during cure periods. Wait 1 to 2 days for cure, depending on heat
and humidity. Base coat cure can be accelerated by misting with
water.
Caution
Tape Product Info
13. When you are ready to begin topcoat, broom way excess
rubber. Then blow off the rest using a high power gas blower.
14. Remove any skin and pre-mix Topcoat 5 minutes with a
drill and
mixer. Do not whip air into coating. Top Coat with Sonoguard
Topcoat at 1-1/4 gallons per 100 sq.ft. using a phenolic core
(solvent proof) 1/4" nap roller and roll out of a paint tray,
being careful to get the excess of the roller before applying (do
not dip in the bucket and roll on, you will apply too thick of
coating). Do not apply topcoat
with excessive thickness. Pooling areas and too much thickness can
result in small blisters on hot days. ALL custom tinted products
need TWO topcoats. Standard Sonoguard pre-tinted topcoats will
benefit from a second coat. Most Polycoat System topcoats require
two coats.
Hint: First
apply topcoat to all perimeter edge areas and up the edge of all
flashings using a disposable brush.
Hint: If the
top coating has globs in it which do not disappear with power
mixing, then strain topcoat through painters sock into the paint
tray before applying.
Sonoguard Topcoat Product Info
3/8"
Roller Cover Product Info
Disposable Brush Info
15. Mark off area with Caution tape to keep off traffic during
cure periods. Let cure 48-96 hours before traffic (depending on
temperature and humidity).
16. Hint: If a high traffic system
is required, add a 2nd layer of topcoat at the rate of 1 gallon per
100 sq.ft.
Maintenance: Clean using soap, natural bristle scrub brush or
street broom and water. To maintain integrity of system, recoat top
layer when rubber granules begin to show (~ 5+ years).
Street
Broom Product Info
HELPFUL
NOTES & HINTS:
* Remove any
"skin" off the top of Sonoguard material before mixing or starting
application. Thick skin can be cut with a razor knife and removed
in one big piece.
* It is HIGHLY
recommended to do a trial area first to practice your technique (an
old piece of plywood sheet works good).
* When re-sealing
cans, be sure and COMPLETELY WIPE sealing surfaces clean. Otherwise
product in this area will cure and permanently glue the lid to the
can.
* For both basecoat
and topcoat, begin by brushing materials up wall,
over Webseal and all around perimeter (do all the detail work
first). Then apply material to the field.
* Use vinyl gloves. This material is hard to
get off. Use WD40 to remove from your skin.
Vinyl Glove Product Info
* Clean-up using Xylene, which you can buy at
your paint or hardware
store. Remove from your hands using WD-40.
Caution: Protect
your skin and eyes from xylene.
* If the basecoat has
to set for some period before the final topcoat can be applied,
cover the deck with 6 mil black plastic sheet. This will protect it
from UV damage as well as contamination from other trades. This cost
about $1.00 per 100 sq.ft. This investment is more than save in the
clean-up needed prior to topcoat.
*
To Shorten the Deck
Coating Process-
Deck coating
technicians can save one day of process time by using PC50
accelerator and Polycoat 440 for seam caulking in lieu of NP1. Make
a paste of these materials, about 1-2 quart at a time, and 3-course
your seams with fiberglass deck webbing as in previous process. This
is a process which needs to be practiced before using. Mixing ratio
is about 1/2 pint of PC50 to 1 gallon of PC440, depending on cure
rate desired and the days temperature. This material can also be
poured into low spots to build them up. Let materials cure to tack
free before applying base coat layers over the top.
CAUTION:
This seam materials must completely cure before applying base coat
over it. In cold weather, it may take a full day or more, even with
the accelerant.
PC-50
Product Info
PC440 Product Info
Wood Based Decks / Balconies (new balconies):
1. Deck should be constructed of exterior grade plywood, 3/4"
minimum thickness, tongue and groove, knot free on outside face.
Plywood should be screwed down using deck screws. We recommend
gluing beam faces before attaching plywood (glue and screw).
Deck Screw Product Info
Screwdrivers, Collated/Automatic, Electric
2.
GRIND down or rest all screw heads which are not completely set to deck
level. DO NOT hammer them in. This will cause loose decks and seam
failures. Also grind any high wood areas (steps) along the seams. Good
preparation is the key to good decks.
3. UNDER
all metal, use a bead of
NP1 caulking
sealant, AND use NP1 caulking on both the
balcony face drip-edge metal to wall interface and deck top
interface. Attach all metal flashing (generally its nailed).
Ultra-low rise drip edge is recommended at the balcony edge.
High lipped edge metals will cause ponding water along the edge.
Clean
metal with acetone or xylene and a rag, the apply
733
primer on all metal surfaces immediately before application of
NP1 Sealant or any base coat.
ALL metal must be primed.
Low-Rise Deck Edge-Metal Product Info
NP-1 Product Info
733
Primer Info
4.
At all high stress areas, including metal-to-wood interfaces and
deck seams, apply 4" white fiberglass 20x20 mesh tape embedded into
Sonoguard Basecoat or NP1 sealant. Do this using a 3-course process
(coating, fiberglass, more coating, then feather out) to hide seams.
This is much like taping a drywall joint wherein you taper joint to
adjacent surfaces. Again, on all metal surfaces, apply
733
Primer before application of basecoat or NP-1
Plywood Seam Details
NP-1 Product Info
Fiberglass Webbing Product Info
5.
Let NP-1 (or basecoat) cure a minimum of 24 hours. It can take 48 to
72 hours in cold or very dry weather. Water mist will accelerate the
cure.
6.
Blow off surfaces and work areas using a high power gas blower, air
or thoroughly broom.
7.
Remove any skin (use a gloved hand if needed) and pre-mix Basecoat 5 minutes with a drill and
mixer.
Do not whip air into coating. Apply Sonoguard Self Leveling Base
Coat at 2 to 2-1/2 gallons per 100 sqft using a 1/4" notched
squeegee. Then back-roll to smooth out the material using a phenolic
core (solvent proof) 1/4" nap roller. Back-rolling is important.
Back-rolling brings air from the surface of the deck to the top of
the basecoat so that it can escape, and evens out the thickness.
Hint: First
apply the basecoat to all perimeter edge areas and up the edge of
all flashings using a disposable brush.
Hint: For highly sloped surfaces order
"Slope
Grade" basecoat to prevent excess running of basecoat. IN COLD
WEATHER, DO NOT USE FLASH SLOPE. IT WILL BE TOO THICK (use two
thinner coats of self leveling).
Sonoguard Self Leveling Base Coat Product Info
Notched Squeegee Product Info
1/4" Nap
Phenolic Core Roller Cover Info
Disposable Brush Info
Mixer Info
8.
Within about 20 minutes, while basecoat material is wet, broadcast
Rubber granules at rate of ~ 20 lbs per 100 sq.ft. (fully cover all
of base coat with a full layer). (Broadcast by throwing it out by
hand).
Rubber Granule Info.
Do not roll after applying.
IF
USING SAND: A second basecoat must be applied after the first
basecoat has cured, and the sand is broadcast into the 2nd layer. Do
not put sand into the first basecoat layer. The second layer only
needs to be thick enough to adhere sand (about 1 gallon per 100 sq.ft.)
Do
not roll after applying.
9.
Mark off area with Caution tape to keep off traffic during cure
periods. Wait 1 to 3 days for cure (depending on temperature and
humidity). Cure can be accelerated by misting water onto surface.
Caution
Tape Product Info
10. When you are ready to begin topcoat, broom away excess or
loosely attached rubber with a stiff broom. Then blow off the rest
using a high-power gas blower.
11. Remove and skin and pre-mix Topcoat 5 minutes with a
drill and
mixer. Do not whip air into coating. Apply Sonoguard Topcoat at
1-1/4 gallons per 100 sq.ft. using a phenolic core (solvent proof)
3/8" nap roller out of a paint tray, being careful to get the excess
of the roller before applying (do not dip in the bucket and roll on,
you will apply too thick of coating). Do not apply topcoat with
excessive thickness. CAUTION: Too thick
of material or pooling areas and can result in small surface
blisters. Apply only enough material to cover the sand or rubber
granules, but not to cause material to pool. ALL custom tinted
products need TWO topcoats. Standard pre-tinted topcoats will
benefit from a second coat. Most Polycoat Systems require TWO
topcoats.
Hint: First
apply topcoat to all perimeter edge areas and up the edge of all
flashings using a disposable brush or mini roller. THEN apply top
coating to the center areas.
Hint: If the
top coating has globs in it which do not disappear with power
mixing, then strain topcoat through painters sock into the paint
tray before applying.
Sonoguard Topcoat Product Info
1/4"
Roller Cover Product Info
Disposable Brush Info
12. Mark off area with Caution tape to keep off traffic during
cure periods. Let cure 48-96 hours before traffic (depending on
temperature and humidity).
13. For custom colors (when using tintable Topcoat with Color
Packs) deck surfaces, a second layer of Topcoat is recommended to
achieve good color coverage. For white or cream color decks,
sometimes a 3rd coat is needed. You will need an additional 3/4
gallon per 100 sq.ft. per coat.
14. Hint: If a very high traffic
system is required, add a 2nd layer of topcoat at the rate of 3/4
per 100 sq.ft.
15. Hint: If you are using a
TINTABLE
or darker color topcoat, apply it in TWO thin coats (allowing it to
cure between coats). This provides the best coloration and long term
resistance to fading.
Troubleshooting:
The most common deck coating problems and causes are -
Basecoat:
* Poor curing, lumps: Failure to mix
thoroughly by power mixer before application; very dry climate
(moisture is needed for cure).
* Bubbles: Wet or contaminated deck;
extreme hot temperature or deck surface.
* Plywood splits and splinters:
Basecoat applied over particle board deck, not exterior grade plywood; plywood was
rained on before base coat application.
* Splits: Wood deck nailed not
screwed; screws missed joists; too few screws; poor sub-framing (add
more or double the joists); plywood was rained on before basecoat
application.
Topcoat:
* Lumps: Failure to remove skin
before mixing; poor mixing; failure to strain before putting into
roller pan.
* Poor Cure: Failure to mix
thoroughly with a power mixer; failure to apply topcoat out of a
roller pan; too thick of topcoat applied, wrong nap size used (use 1/4" nap
only).
* Poor Coverage: Failure to apply 2
topcoat layers; too thin of material applied.
See Maintenance and Helpful Notes
from Concrete deck above.
LOOSE-LAID
Rubber Tiles Decking System:
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Sonneborn,
Steelhead,
SunRise Solar,
Sunset,
Super Anchor,
Surebond,
Swan Secure,
Tex-Trude,
Thunderbird Products,
TRA,
Velux,
Vulcan,
Wade,
Watts,
Weatherbond,
Werner,
Winfab,
Western Colloid,
Winco,
Wire Works,
Zurn
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