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FAQ and Wiki Knowledgebase
NEW: Our FAQ database contains answers*
and DIY methods to frequently asked questions on Roofing, Venting, Waterproofing and Roofing Repairs.
Questions? Email
sales@bestmaterials.com
Or call
1-800-474-7570, 602-272-8128
You'll get a prompt response.
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are best done using your browser. Select "EDIT" then "FIND ON THIS PAGE" the words you wish to search for.
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Popular Page Links:
Basement Waterproofing, Existing
Basement Waterproofing, New Construction
Concrete Expansion Joint Sealants
Directory of Information Pages (all our detailed topics pages)
EPDM Installation Instructions for a Small Roof
Roof
Vent Calculations
Rubber Roof Tear Repair
RV Roof Replacement Materials List
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FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (AND
ANSWERS)
(we welcome all your comments and
suggestions !)
Subject:
Small Roof EPDM Installation Instructions
Q:
Can you summarize the process for applying EPDM to a small wood deck roof
(9x18) ? .
A: Order 10x20
size EPDM. Unwrap EPDM and fold out on
the roof deck. Let is sit a day so any wrinkles can relax. Sit EPDM in
place, determine you edge fold over etc, then trim (or glue it all
down, then finish trim). Prep: remove anything not flat or protruding.
Fix any areas in need. Use screws, not nails (which will back out). Then you can pretty much follow this guide:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf
Adhesive: coverage is 60 sq-ft / gal (net, after
both sides application). 9x18 = 162 So 3 gallons.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19164
It takes 2 people to apply the EPDM/Adhesive.
Watch the adhesive and EPDM lay-in application methods in this movie,
starting about 3:20 seconds in (ignore the insulation installation
section):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_EPDM.aspx#EPDM_Application
Mix all liquids well, including adhesive, with a
mixer before applying. Let adhesive tack-dry.
Practice your technique first (like on some
plywood, with a small piece of the the extra EPDM you got.
Be careful not to get bubbles under the EPDM.
They are very difficult to get out. Slowly roll/move the edge of the
adhesive coated EPDM back onto the adhesive coated deck, eliminating
bubbles at you lay EPDM into it. This is where 2 people are needed.
Work a small section at a time. After you get the EPDM down, roll it.
Only a light duty roller is needed. Something like this is fine:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9410
The edges: apply primer+ L-metal at the edge
over the EPDM: Prime metal and surfaces EPDM,
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=19719
Primer is scrubbed into the surfaces.
Then apply Coverstrip / Flashing Tape.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
Like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_EPDM.aspx#EPDM_Residential_Roof_Edge_Details
Roll it well to fuse sealant to surfaces.
Caulk the edges of the Coverstrip flashing tape
with M1.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
Subject:
Roof Pitch Gauge / Chart
Q:
Do
you have a roof pitch chart or gauge? .
A:
You can print this free chart and view it against the house
profile to estimate pitch:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/roof-pitch-chart.GIF
Subject:
Concrete Driveway & Garage Joint Sealants
Q:
Do
you have a product that is good for sealing concrete driveway and
garage expansion
joints? I currently have expansion joints and they are
falling apart and I would like to re-seal them.
A:
These joints are best handled as follows:
Summary: You pry out the
old joint materials. Clean joint well (wire brush & vacuum etc). Let dry as needed.
Vacuum (edges should be
clean and have a fresh surface). If edges are not clean, run a grinding
disk or blade across them, then vacuum. Set backer rod as noted. Apply sealant,
not thicker than 1/2 the width, measured at the center area. Do
not apply sealant above the top plane of the concrete Tires should
not push down on it.
Detail:
* Remove old joint materials.
(use pry-bars, screw drivers) . If you have old sealant in it, use
one of these to remove:
* Clean joints (wire brush, then
sweep, then vacuum)
* Set Backer rod. Like the photos
about 1/2 down this page:
* Apply a Self Leveling expansion
joint sealant. Novalink SL is our most popular sealant:
Subject: Polyurethane vs. Polyether Self Leveling Sealants
Q: We use a good bit of Sikaflex 1C-SL self leveling sealant at horizontal concrete control and expansion joints and are getting
ready to purchase for another project. We noticed that you carry both SL1 polyurethane that we are familiar with as well as the Novalink SL
Polyether (we are not familiar). Would the Novalink product compare as well to the polyurethanes? . . as far as long term durability, adhesion qualities, etc.?
A:
We have been selling the Polyether based products for 9+ years now (along side
polyurethanes). They have always performed well, and we have no reported
failures. In particular, the Novalink Self Leveling products have some
added
benefits: Faster Curing (especially in lower temps), Compatibility with both
Asphalt and Concrete (so you can do those concrete-to-asphalt joints), no smell,
wider application temperature range (especially low temp, down to 32F), more
standard color options in tubes. It also bonds to slightly damp concrete (but dry
surfaces are always better).
Subject: Roof Vent Calculations
Q:
I have a 2000 sq. ft. two-story building. The only vents are two 1
sq. ft grilles near front of building just below roof line, one on
each side just below roof line. I have a big problem with ice
buildup on the rear of building. I have been told that I need roof
vents to let the trapped heat to escape so as not to melt the snow
on roof. What type vent should I use, and how many?
A:
This is a very complicated
"calculation". This guide attic ventilation guide will help you
with this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/PAVbooklet.pdf
Subject:
New Basement Waterproofing
Q:
I want to build a basement. As such, I want it to be waterproof
thoroughly. The walls will be poured concrete with re-enforced rebar
in it and 8 inches thick. I realize there will be some un-avoidable
cracking and possible leaks. I live in east central Indiana and can
have extreme winters and summers and very wet weather?
A: A completely dry basement in all
weather conditions is possible. Here are some of the key elements
to consider and suggested products:
*
Underslab moisture barriers. Underseal (not in our online catalog
yet)
http://www.polyguardproducts.com/products/Underseal/850_images/850photobook.htm
*
Perimeter wall waterproofing membrane Flexible type, HLM 5000:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
or Cementitous Waterproofing,
Thoroseal:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16581
*
Perimeter wall drainage board
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16672
*
Foundation drainage Above item, with perforated drains, set in
gravel
* Interior
wall joint caulking and finishing with Novalink in joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=
1158
Basement Floor
Coating: AES-200
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=18177
Other: Have a
good roof gutter and drainage planned to move water AWAY from the
house. Grade the land to shed water away. Plan on how water from
neighbors water will come onto your land and what to do with it.
Subject: Sonoguard traffic system,
sand in which layer?
Q:
I bought base coat and topcoat and I applied base coat. Then next
day I put second coat of base and a sand, and the next day I
installed topcoat over the sand. Should I have put topcoat over the
base and sand over the topcoat?
A:
This can be confusing as there are two acceptable methods for
application, both work fine:
1. As you did: basecoat, 2nd
basecoat + sand, Topcoat 2x.
2. Basecoat , topcoat + sand +
roll around, 2nd topcoat +3rd topcoat.
3. Basecoat, topcoat + sand NO
rolling, 2nd + 3rd topcoat.
What does not work are the
Sonoguard instructions (#2) to put sand into topcoat and roll it
around. This makes an awful mess and poor looking decks.
Most applicators prefer method
#1. #3 is more durable, but more expensive.
Vehicular decks always require 2
topcoat layers.
Subject: Best Elastomeric Coating
for Foam or Built-Up Roofing.
Q:
I have an aging roof with some low / ponding water areas and
slightly worn area. I'd like to extend the life and get some
summertime cooling. What coating do you think is the best?
A:
We have tested most everything. Testing is done side-by-side up on
our own warehouse roof. Absolutely, the AES flexible epoxy is by far
the best we have tested (AES-125).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=AES-125
Western Colloid
WC-770
is designed for large areas and is cost effective and long lasting.
Standard elastomeric acrylics
discolor and begin to lose thickness within months. The AES system
dries with a semi-gloss which allows most dirt to be washed away
from a rain. The brightness and full coating thickness is still
there after many years. Ponding water performance is the same. It
can be applied over either foam, built-up roofing, granulated cap
sheet or metal roofing. You can cut down the cost by applying it
over a basecoat of acrylic elastomeric. The bright white coating
cooled our warehouse by about 10 degrees in the hot Phoenix summers.
Product can be color tinted.
Subject: Repair of Leaking Tile
over Wood Balcony
Q:
I've got a 4' x 6' ceramic-tiled balcony which I suspect is the
entry point for significant water leakage into the room below.
Rather than tearing out the existing tile & grout, I was hoping
there was some type of sealant available. The balcony is exposed to
full sun & rain.
A;
Properly, the wood deck should have been 100% waterproofed before
the tile was added. Unfortunately, this is a very common building
defect. The wood deck under the tile moves a lot during weather
changes, and the grout/tile over it just sits there. So cracking
along the grout occurs. Repairing is good for a season, then it
re-cracks. Properly, you need to remove the tile, waterproof, then
reset tile, preferably with flexible & waterproof thinset/grouting.
These links explain it further. under-tile waterproofing
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx#
Or you can just apply the deck
coating system, and leave it. They are very durable.
As a temporary measure, many have
had success with a couple of coats of Enviroseal 40. It may need to
reapplied a couple seasons until its built up enough.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Subject: Asphalt Products and
Polyurethane Incompatibility
Q:
I may have used the wrong product…..I have a polyurethane foam roof,
it had blisters in it that I cut out and then filled in with a Henry
asphalt based flashing cement. Some of the patches ended up being a
couple of inches deep, so the flashing cement has hardened on the
surface but is still very mushy below (it’s been a couple of weeks).
Questions:
Did I screw up by not using a foam
or polyurethane patch for the blisters, or will the flashing cement
work fine? Will the 2” thick patches always remain mushy because
it’s too thick of an application for the flashing cement?
A:
Most asphalt based products are incompatible with
polyurethane foam products. Over time, they will chemically react,
and the interfaces will separate. You may need to cut out all
the Henry filled areas, prime to seal, fill with foam and recoat
over the foam with an elastomeric roofing coating (to protect the
foam from sun/uv and other damage.
Small foam repair kits:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
Elastomeric Roof Coating
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11790
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17295
Primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17245
Subject: RV Roof Repairs
Q:
I've read about most of your products but still would like your
recommendation as to what to use. I have a fifth wheel camper with
rubber roof bout 10 years old I have had leaks where rubber meets
the plastic at each end, also the sky light and have many vents air
conditioner antennas and so forth some have been patched with
silicone and some with butyl rubber , the rubber sticks the best. I
would like something self leveling that would stick to the butyl
calk that is in place what do I need to clean the surface with and
do I need to coat the entire rubber roof with something if so what
should I use.
A:
Each area requires a slightly different set of materials, but the
same preparation.
PREP (as in most jobs, its most the
work):
1. Remove all traces of silicone
sealants. Nothing wants to stay stuck to them, and in the sun they
gradually lose adhesion to what they are supposed to seal. Use a
razor knife or sharp pocket knife and scrape away. Then a kitchen
scrub sponge or scotch brite pad. Then Eternaclean and a rag.
Eternaclean link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
2. Prime: Especially for EPDM
surfaces which will get sealed. Don't apply outside the sealing
area, as primer will discolor in the sun.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
APPLY SEALANT:
* Around ROUND or IRREGULAR
penetrations (like pipes, antennas etc), use M1 sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
* At the front cab to epdm roof
interface, and EPDM seams: EPDM COVER STRIP (heavy duty EPDM faced
with peel/stick):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
* At roof edges, and for the A/C
units or similar square boxes on the roof: Use Eternabond RoofSeal
White (it will more readily wrap corners): Its possible to use the
Eternabond on the CAB/ROOF joint, but the Eternabond is not as
durable for this joint.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
* ROLL WELL all tape sealants
to fuse to the surface, using a good roller.
Subject: Question on boot flashings
for high pitch roof
Q:
I'm looking to order a boot flashing in silicone for a stove pipe.
The question I have is the pitch of the roof is steeper than normal
(18/12 pitch) should I order the regular size I would need (in this
case it'd be 8S) or should I order one size larger for the higher
pitch? I'm unable to go through the roof at an angle so straight
through is my only option.
A:
Regarding your roof pitch, 18/12 is about 56 degrees. These boots do
not accommodate this angle easily. To have your pipe exit straight
up, you should have a sheet metal pipe flashing built, then seal the
top with a rubber seal (which we can supply).
Subject:
Rubber Roof Tear Repair
Q:
I recently had a tree fall on my 5th wheel, One of the branches tore
an 18' x 30" flap off my rubber roof. it is still attached at one
end. Is this repairable with your products?
A:
REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along
damaged area into good area using a razor knife so that you can peel
back the tear to clean under it. Trim off the rough edges so you
will have a clean repair line.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof
surface AND underside of EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and
Eternaclean cleaner. Let dry. If you cannot clean surfaces well, use
Eternaprime primer on both surfaces. Let cure about an hour.
Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer:
http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply either: Thin beads of M1
adhesive sealant, OR Eternabond DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER
the EPDM roofing materials which need to be re-stuck down. For the
M1 sealant, spread out material (with a notched trowel or similar).
Reapply EPDM Roofing to this surface and walk on / squeegee with
hand or roller to remove any bubbles. For the DoubleStick, its
INSTANT stick. No cure needed. Roll well to fuse the surfaces.
DoubleStick:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15343
For M1, its less expensive, and
needs to cure. Here is a link.
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14846
For large area repairs, use EPDM BONDING ADHESIVE:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
4. OPTIONAL: Mechanically fasten
both sides of repair area after adhering down. Install a series of
short stainless steel ring shank nails (or flathead screws) on both
sides of tear area. This will provide mechanical reinforcement for
the tear area:
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15222
5. If M1 sealant is used, let the
M1 cure 2 days (it needs to outgas a bit).
6. Clean the EPDM roof surface
using Eternaclean in the area where the new top surfaces repair tape
will be applied. Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
7. THEN cover the repair area (and
any fasteners used) with either EPDM COVERSTRIP or ROOFSEAL WHITE
repair tape, overlapping the tape about 1-2 inches outside the
repair area/nails. This will seal out the water and hide the repair
nicely. Use a roller and apply: 4" RoofSeal (not foot-traffic grade)
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341 or 6" wide if
needed:
http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11342
You can overlap tape as needed, no
problem. EPDM COVERSTRIP (this is a heavy duty product will take
foot traffic):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
8. Use remaining M1 sealant
to seal edges, corners, laps and any details which look like its
needed. If a larger area repair is needed, we have lots of smaller
EPDM pieces. Let us know the size you need and we may have a piece
we can sell you inexpensively. You can attach it using M1 or EPDM
Bonding Adhesive:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
Subject: Black EPDM roofing
membrane
Q:
I own a 34 motor home whose roof is in poor condition. Can I put a
new EPDM membrane over the old one or must I remove the old one
completely? Why use a 60 mil over 45 mil?
A:
If the old roof is adhered well,
its possible to adhere the new one over the old one. And this is a
lot less work.
The 60 mil EPDM will have
double the life of the 45, and is much more damage resistance. White
color is not available in 45 mil. In putting new over old, you need
to clean the old one well, prime, and then apply adhesive as
directed. Products are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16012
For a 40 foot motor home, the
typical roof replacement list is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/savedcart2.aspx?id=cart4
You can click BUY NOW to add all
items to cart, then you can edit cart as desired.
Subject: RV Roof Replacement
Materials List
Q:
I am repairing my RV. It need
also roof repair. The roof is 8 feet wide and 27 feet long. Please
give me an estimate about all roof covering material and other
necessary materials.
A:
This sample cart should cover it. Its for a 9x30 foot area, with a
rooftop A/C.
RV
Roof Replacement Pictorial (use together with above guides)
Subject:
RV Rubber Roof Coating
Q:
I
have a RV with a EPDM roof that is staring to show its black base
through the white. It has never been coated and I would like to coat
it. Do you have a product compatible with EPDM?
Subject: Best EPDM Seam Construction
Q:
I am re-doing my RV roof with white epdm. I will have a seam across
it and I am having a hard time understanding which seam seal method
I should use. Can you help me understand this?
1) 3" or 4" seam tape, with primer?
2) 4" double stick 60mil no primer ($57.95 for 50')?
3) Splice adhesive ($60.00 for 1 quart)
A:
The best practice is to create a double lap-seam. It will out-live
the roof. Create as follows:
1. clean, overlapping EPDM pieces, in preparation for 3" wide
Doublestick. If you have an OLD
roof surface, prime the surfaces
first. New EPDM can be generally just cleaned well.
Insurance: Just prime both
surfaces before applying Doublestick seam material.
3. Then cover the exposed seam
edge with a piece of COVERSTIP TAPE (6" wide, EPDM faced
peel/stick tape). PRIOR to applying this, clean surface and prime. Only prime
in areas where the coverstrip will be exposed.
Now you have a double sealed
seam, which will take foot traffic, and outlast the rest of the
roof.
Subject: Deck Post Caulking / Sealant
Q:
I am looking for a sealant to put at the connection of 2" diameter metal
deck rail uprights as it connects to a wood sill. The uprights have
a 3"x3" plate with 4 screw holes at each location. There is a shoe
that then covers the plate. The location is 2 blocks from the ocean
and is susceptible to a lot of moisture. Any ideas? Thanks.
A:
We suggest Novalink sealant. Its available in some nice colors and
100% solids (non-shrinking), and is paintable.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
Application Summary: Clean areas
well before applying (sandpaper is good). Apply to screws holes
before inserting, around perimeter of base and top and perimeter of
the cover plate. Use a bead of about 1/2 inch wide. Use masking tape
to make nice lines if you are not used to dispensing. Clean-up:
WD-40 works on your hands before its cured. If integrity of wood is
in question, add primer. Do not apply primer outside of sealant
area, as it will discolor in the sun. Primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15866
Subject: EPDM Edge Tear Repairs
Q:
I have a 'Stevens-EP' roof made by JPS Elastomerics of Holyoke, MA.
The membrane is cracking at the edges of the roof where it is
stretched over the edge corner, 90 degree not rounded, of the
plywood underlayment. The company that installed the roof is no
longer in business. My question is will your line of products for
EPDM work on the 'Stevens-EP' roof?
A:
We have a couple of products for this repair. Most popular is
RoofSeal White. Its a peel/stick product. It readily folds over the
edge of the roofing. Our EPDM faced products are good too, but do
not wrap the edge readily.
Eternaobond is available in white
or black face. Here are the links:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
Application: EPDM CLEANING: The can
be accomplished several methods, depending on the type of cleaning
needed. The objective is to remove all surfaces contaminate and
create a fresh surfaces. Burnishing with a plastic scrub pad is
quick and effective. Eternaclean is also effective. For very large
areas, scrubbing with a mixture of TSP and bleach is used by some.
Regardless, the final surface must be free of dirt and not have any
powder-like residues. OPTIONAL: Follow cleaning with an EPDM
Primers. Apply Eternabond RoofSeal tape and roll well to fuse
to the EPDM.
Subject: waterproofing of a
concrete slab to wall
Q:
I have a problem with a slab that poured which was not leveled
correctly. This drainage is sloped back towards a garage wall which
is causing flooding through the garage when we have heavy rains. The
wall is hardboard siding framed on wooden base plates with wooden
studs. I would like to know if you have a product which will allow
me to waterproof this wall.
A:
Although we are not there to view all the construction details and
drainage issues, we suggest you consider this general method:
1. Remove all traces of old
sealants by scraping.
2. Clean/powerwash all surfaces.
3. Allow to completely dry
4. Prime both wood and concrete
areas to be sealed using a penetrating primer. Let primer dry.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
5. Apply RoofSeal tape in a L shape
to both surfaces.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15736
OPTIONAL: Add a bead of
waterproofing sealant to the joint area BEFORE applying Eternabond
RoofSeal Tape. Such as NP1 sealant. This will strengthen the joint
area and take some stress off the tape. NP1 will take 3-5 days to
cure, before adding the RoofSeal Tape.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
I would consider adding a complete
waterproofing to the concrete walkway to prevent water absorption,
and this water moving under the structure. Otherwise, at a minimum,
protect all the concrete area with Enviroseal 40.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Subject: Asphalt bonding primer for
Polyurea
Q:
We are coating asphalt walkways and balconies with Polyurea. We have
a primer that we have used in the past but it takes between 4 and 8
hrs to dry which is obviously not helpful for us as the walkways
tend to lead directly into the tenants accommodation, and the
Polyurea itself dries in 3-5seconds . Also do you have any other
products that adhere to asphalt/ mastic asphalt surfaces?
A:
We suggest you consider UNISEAL waterbased primer which can be used
on asphaltic surfaces, as well as most other common ones.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
Also the WC 970 primer.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17245
And Nitoprime 60, a two-component
100% solids penetrating epoxy sealer. It is designed to prime
concrete and masonry before the application of epoxy liners and
polyurea top coats.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17530
Subject: Enviroseal 40
Q:
I need to seal the brick on a church, is this the right product to
use? What type of sprayer do you recommend? The church has very
porous brick. What do you feel would be the proper application rate?
A:
For brick walls, the Enviroseal 20 will work fine. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
Product instructions and
application rate / yield information is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e20_tdg.pdf
Sprayers: a Hudson type, hand-pump,
low pressure, non-atomizing type sprayer is commonly used, such as
Deck and FenceTM sprayer models 67981 (1-gal Quick 'n Easy), 67991
(1-gal) and 67992 (2-gal).
Subject: lead pipe flashing for
sloped roof
Q:
I am not certain about these sizes, but for pricing sake,
let's assume that the pipe I am putting through the roof is 3 + 1/2"
O.D. (PVC drain pipe Schedule 40). I guess that would require a Jack
L 375. Let's also assume that the flange width is about 20" and the
length up/down roof is about 24". The slate exposure is 7 ", with
12" wide slates. I need to determine the exact size for the flange
from this. Are there standard size flanges for slate roof fixtures?
I know there are, but haven't seen exactly what they are.
A:
Yes, we can fabricate these. They are custom made. Please let us
know the base size you desire, and the exact Diameter of the pipe
you need to flash in. On high slope roofs, having it a bit
larger is always good.
Subject: 2003 Topaz 5th-Wheel RV
Roof
Q:
We have noticed a one foot stretch on our roof where the membrane
of the roof has lifted. There does not seem to be any perforations
at this time. What is your suggestion to repair this problem.
A:
We presume that your RV roof is EPDM and the adhesive layer is
letting go in this area.
Repair is to cut an X in this,
clean underneath, apply EPDM adhesive according to instructions,
replace EPDM. Now across the X-Cuts, apply a layer of
COVERSTRIP (very durable, EPDM Faced with peel/stick adhesive).
Before applying this, clean roofing surface well, prime if needed,
apply Coverstrip and roll-in well to fuse sealant to roof surface.
Products:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
Subject: EPDM Roof, Cold Weather
Repairs
Q:
What do you have in a low temperature sealer for a flat rubber roof
in good condition on a large house. Looks like EPDM. What we do is
spot treat areas of concern at this time of year, and into early
winter (which is why we're seeking low temperature). There was once
a clear rubberized elastomeric spray...but what might you have for
this?
A:
Eternabond is popular for this repair:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
In very low temps, use together
with primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
Cold Weather Repair Video:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_eternabond.aspx#Eternabond_Cold_Weather_Roof_Repairs
EPDM Repairs
EPDM Roof Repair with Eternabond
Subject: PVC
Roof Repair
Q: I have a pvc deck on top of my
garage and had to replace the railing. I had to poke holes through
the roofing to install the new 4x4 wood posts and now the roof is
leaking. There were cleats by the posts that also had to come out so
I need to repair several 4"x6"spots and everything around the
posts. What do you recommend to fix the leaks.
A: Here is a link to a movie on
repairing PVC roof leaks.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/video_eternabond.aspx#Single_Ply_Roof_Seam_Repair_with_Eternabond
Product links
for ordering or more information:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15735
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
For odd areas,
you can use M1 sealant. Clean and prep as with Eteranbond:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15586 or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
Subject: Chimney Waterproofing /
Enviroseal
Q:
We are interested in using "Enviroseal 40" to stop a leak that is
entering my family room around the bottom of the fireplace stone
work. The exterior of the fireplace chimney is composed of brickwork
running from the patio deck to the roof and is entirely exposed to
the weather. Roof repairs, chimney and chimney flash plate have been
worked on with negative results. I am contemplating applying "Enviroseal
40" to this exterior brickwork to stop this mysterious leak. The
question is; would this product be recommended for this application
or would an alternative product be more appropriate for this
application. On the other hand; have any of your workforce run into
this problem before and if so can you advise as to where this type
of leak can be originating.
A:
It is common for these mystery leaks to start up the on the side
of the chimney, and make there way through to the bottom. Many
stones and grout will absorb water like a sponge -- especially in
wind-driven rain. So treating the entire outside is generally
required.
The treatment is to apply Enviroseal 20 or 40 starting from the
top of the chimney and all the way down.
The Enviroseal 20 is generally ok
for the vertical applications. Here is how:
Subject: Parking garage- traffic
area waterproofing
Q:
I am looking to do waterproof 8 seams , and a couple of expansion
joints , each seam- joint is about 50 feet long , and I want to do a
2ft width over the area's , to overlap them, can you give me and
idea of what it would cost ,
A:
For expansion joints and seams, these are handled somewhat
separately from the waterproofing of the main concrete deck surface.
Generally, the process is:
1. degrease / clean decks.
2. remove old sealants from joints
(grind out with one of these or similar method:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16419
Also grind small cracks, as
needed for repair with NP1 sealant.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16423
3. Clean decks again as needed
4. fix and seal small cracks. Use
either a crack repair product, or NP1. Tool to create a flat
surface.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10845
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17323
5. apply basecoat, aggregate layers
and topcoats
6. finally, set backer rod and
apply expansion joint sealant
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
If you have saw-cut type joints,
clean and fill with NP1 before applying step 5.
More information about concrete
construction and waterproofing practice:
Specifications for Structural
Concrete
Specs on Structural Concrete
If you just want to do the
saw-cut joints and expansion joints, you can see the general
process and materials above.
How much sealant? See our
Estimating Guide.
Deck Waterproofing Coverage: 5G
pail of Basecoat covers about 200 sqft. 5G pail of Topcoat covers
about 400 sqft PER LAYER. If you are applying sand aggregate, you
will need to increase the topcoat to 2 layers (one layer with sand
in it, then the final layer)
Subject: filling concrete expansion
joints
Q:
We would like your recommendation for filling a couple of expansion
joints in a concrete driveway which we recently cleaned out. It
appears that these joints were previously filled with an asphalt
like material. These joints measure somewhere between 5/8 to ¾ inch
in width and 4 inches deep. Based on reading at your web site, it
appears that a closed cell backer rod might be best. The questions
we have are: 1. What kind of backer rod would you recommend? ( need
a part number for ordering)
2. What sort of sealant should be
used? ( need a part number for ordering )
3. How much sealant will be
required per foot of backer rod?
4. Can the sealant be applied with
the usual caulking gun?
5. Based on the diagrams at your
web site which shows the backer rod covered by sealant, there will
be an area unfilled below the backer rod. Should this unfilled are
below the backer rod be left empty? If not, what should this area be
filled with? ( need a part number for ordering )
A:
Here is a link to the backer rod: You should use CLOSED CELL type of
backer rod.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
The products designed for concrete
expansion joint sealant are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are
several types. I like the Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up
to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single component and quick curing.
Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired (recommended) and apply
sealant. Remove tape as soon as materials start to set. Make sure
the backer rod fills all gaps. Any gaps will allow sealant to run
out before curing. Putting rock or sand under the backer rod is
optional. If there is a large gap down there, you may wish to fill
it some before setting backer rod. Your option.
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Application tools for sealant:
Either use a caulk gun, or one of these:
Squeeze Bottle Jug
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Email us with any questions or problems.
Subject: Sonoguard Application
Q:
I am getting ready to recoat the Sonoguard on my houseboat roof deck
and was wondering if I need to recoat the entire deck with the
basecoat and then the topcoat or can I just apply the topcoat over
the Sonoguard currently on the houseboat. It is not in that bad of
shape. It serves as a roof and also a deck so people do walk and sit
on the roof.
A:
To apply a new Sonoguard topcoat over an existing system, we suggest
this process:
1. powerwash & let dry.
2. swab with a rag and xylene (high
purity, no alcohol in it). This will activate the surface for the
new topcoat layer to adhere to. CAUTION: Xylene is flammable and
hazardous. Avoid breathing, skin and eye contact. OR-
2. Apply
primer, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
Do not use alcohol or alcohol
contaminated tools.
3. Open topcoat can. Remove any
skin on the top using a gloved hand. Mix coating thoroughly using a
power drill and mixer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14841
4. Roll on new topcoat. Don't apply
too thick. Use a 1/4" nap Phenolic roller and roll from a paint pan.
5. Clean up of Sonoguard off your
skin: Use WD-40.
More hints are here:
wood based decks
Subject: Deck Seam Repairs,
Sonoguard Recoat and Repair Methods
Q:
I have a tear or split in a Sonoguard deck. What is the repair
method? Can I use regular sheets sheets of plywood in repairs? Is
the Sonoguard strong enough (flexible) to deal with the joints? Or
do I need to use some sort of joint seaming tape...?
A:
Sonoguard /Deck Repairs:
Cracks and Tears require an
investigation so that the root cause of the defect is addressed.
Common Causes Include:
* deck are nailed, not glued and
screwed
* screws missed the studs
* insufficient number of screws
* deck was not constructed with
tongue/groove plywood
* plywood was installed without
sufficient expansion joint
* plywood was rained on before deck
coating was applied
* plywood was not made with
exterior grade plywood
* no reinforcement of seams and
flashing to deck was done
* too thin of coating layers were
applied
How to Investigate:
* sand/grind area with cut small
sections with a razor knife to expose deck surface.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14807
* Inspect to see construction
defect.
Repair Structural Part
* Repair as needed (add screws,
reinforce deck, or re-sheet deck)
* Reinforce repair area with
fiberglass cloth embedded in basecoat or NP1, and let cure.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9698
Apply new deck coat system,
including base coat. Follow this general outline:
wood based decks. Its
your option to apply one or two top coats. Two will last longer.
Don't apply one thick coat.
TEMPORARY REPAIRS: cracks can be
cut out in a V-shape using a razor knife, and filled with NP1. Cut
in a 1/4 to 3/8" wide V. Apply NP1 and tool top till level.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
MORE DETAIL regarding construction
of seams: both edges should be glued and screwed down. No nails.
Then the two edges should be checked to assure the heights are the
same. If now, grind them. Apply plywood with proper expansion gap
(dime thickness). Fill all gaps with NP1. Then apply reinforcement
membrane and embed in either NP1 or a stripe of Basecoat.
If your suspect your deck may have
a problem, Re-sheet with a 2nd layer of plywood, laid cross direction
to the first. I would add a second sheet layer over the first if it
already built without glue and screws. Screw and glue the second
layer. All plywood should be exterior grade (water resistant
adhesives), and knot free on the top side.
Subject: Warehouse Expansion Joint
Resealing, Sl-1
Q:
What is the best item to put in expansion joints? We have a large
warehouse and use forklifts that push heavy steel around. Poly’s
don’t hold up well. We put an epoxy in one building, but that was
very time consuming (had to pour out of little cups). Got any ideas
for me? I need to do at least 1 more warehouse with 30,000 sf…about
6,000 linear feet ¼” wide.
A:
Warehouse expansion joints can be challenging. Old joints can be
chipped along the edges in the high traffic areas. Also, differences
in high of two slabs can make smooth transition a problem.
We suggest this process:
1. plane/grind the two adjoining
surfaces where needed to assure matching heights.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16438
2. clean out the joint.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16416
3. Apply closed cell backer rod
where needed:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
4. Apply TF100 sealant. Make sure
its below the level of the top:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=TF-100
To speed application, apply duct
tape on either side of joint, mix a batch of product, then put in
and fill joint from a fine-spouted plastic watering can.
5. Let materials cure thoroughly
before traffic. If this is not possible, place plywood over traffic
areas until 100% cured.
6. Sweep joints regularly to keep
them clean.
Subject: Terry Trailer Roof Repair
Q:
My recently purchased 94 Terry has been neglected and has some roof
damage due to a bad spot being untended for a period of time, it has
not gotten so bad that it shows on the inside ceiling but obviously
has rotted a spot in the plywood and likely some damage to the
ceiling joists. The roof material appears serviceable for a few years
except at the rip/rot area, it's blue underneath with a white
coating which is flaking 2. all caulking and seams need attention 3.
It looks like it needs a coat of something - if not outright
replacement of total, but maybe could be patched for a few years
more? 4. There is a little sag at the a/c which could be eliminated
by removing some plywood and beefing up the joists which hold it up
<assuming there is no water intrusion there> 5. IF I chose to take
on the project and replace the covering totally A. All those
openings look like a challenge to get right - does the fabric go
down on a flat surface and then the curbs <which presumably are
removed prior to stripping the roof> get replaced on top? Or does
the fabric have to be cut to fit over the curbs <a super challenge
to get right>. B. Does the plywood on the roof get an overlay of new
material so that there is new material for bonding with the glue
penetration? In some of the literature it seems to suggest that,
while in others it does not. 6. My roof is less than 30' long, but
has a number of openings as you can see, I'll need some help getting
the order right as if/and/or when I do this it will be outside and
I'll not be in a place to take a break while waiting for materials
in the mail.
A:
You have a complex repair / restoration project.
Our suggestion is removal &
replacement. Otherwise you may miss something and be back at
square-1. Here is an approach to consider:
1. Remove all the roof top items
(a/c, vents, antenna etc).
2. Remove EPDM trim strip around
the edge.
3. Strip off all the old EPDM
roofing.
4. Make needed wood deck repairs.
USE A CHEAP TARP TO PROTECT TOP WHILE THIS WORK IS IN PROGRESS:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15398
5. Install new EPDM materials. Use
this guide:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf
and this guide:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/RV_Roof_Replacement.aspx
SEAMS: These can be quite reliable.
Follow instructions for SEAMS AND SEAM REPAIRS: EPDM Repairs
6. Reattach roof top items. Seal
with M1 sealant, under the foot of each item and again around the
perimeter.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
7. Reattached the perimeter trim
strip with new butyl rubber sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/butyl-rubber-sealant-caulk-1103.html
Here is an example of a repair kit
for a 10x30 area:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/savedcart2.aspx?id=cart3
Click BUY NOW and this adds all the
items to your cart. You can edit cart from there to add/remove as
you wish.
Subject: Question regarding
Enviroseal 40 Concrete/Masonry Silane Penetrating Sealer
Q:
I live in Michigan, and am looking for penetrating concrete sealer
for my driveway. We go through freeze/thaw cycles quite a few times
in the winter, and they salt the roads quite a bit, which tracks
road salt into our driveway. Our driveway is almost 2 years old, but
I have noticed that because of the freeze/thaw cycles and the road
salt, that the driveways of neighbors who have driveways a few years
older have 'popped' or flaked badly on the service. I would like to
prevent this, and was wondering if this product would be okay on a
driveway, and work to prevent the situation that I described. I have
looked locally, and they all have the film-forming glossy type
sealers that need to be applied year after year and just set on the
surface, which I don't want. I want something that when dries won't
be noticeable, and that will be a once and done, or at least once
every several years type thing. Will
Enviroseal 40 this product work for my intended purpose?
A:
This product will help this a lot. Apply in two coats. Also making
sure the expansion joints are well sealed is very important. Use SL1
or Novalink SL together with closed-cell backer rod on the expansion
joints. Here are links to these items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Product data sheet
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e40_tdg.pdf
Use Closed Cell Backer rod:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
SL sealants
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=969
Crack repair kit:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17323
Subject: Steel Beam EPDM Roof
Penetration Seal
Q:
I am writing to inquire about obtaining the appropriate materials to
seal the openings in our EPDM roofing where a metal frame for a bell
will be installed in our church’s bell tower.
The frame will penetrate the
roofing in 5 places. The four legs of the frame are 2” x 3” steel
tubing and the bell pull rope will go through a steel pipe with a 1”
outside diameter. The bell frame and pipe will go through the
membrane, through the underlying insulating foam, through the
corrugated steel and tie into steel cross beams under the ‘floor’ of
the bell tower opening.
A:
We would suggest to consider this approach:
1. 2x3 Frame members: These will
move around some during winter/summer months relative to the top of
the roof (expansion/contraction). So a flexible seal is recommended.
I would suggest a retrofit boot, in black EPDM (which will match
everything). One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16029
2. The top of this will wrap around
the perimeter of the 2x3 pipe. Seal edge at the top with a generous
amount of black M1 sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14958
3. Base part of boot should be
screwed through the EPDM membrane to the deck. This is up to you. M1
sealant only under the bottom edge, plus a generous bead around the
perimeter may do. If you use screws, use roofing screws (washered)
and do not over-tighten. Use M1 around screws when done. I would
probably add some screws, but I am not there to see construction
details. BEFORE APPLYING M1 to existing EPDM surface to seal, scrub
the surface with a new plastic kitchen scrubber to get a fresh clean
surface.
For your 1" pipe, use the same
technique, but use one of these boots:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16028
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16056
Subject: SS Roofing Screws
Corrosion Test
Q:
I just received my order of stainless steel roofing screws
and they appear to be bright zinc plated and highly magnetic. How do
I confirm they are stainless steel.
A:
Many roofing screws use a magnetic grade of Stainless Steel and
this is confusing to many customers. Most zinc screws are
yellow-zinc.
You
can test as follows: file an edge down. Place in a small glass of
salt water over night, and look for rust the next morning (put a
nail in another glass as a comparison).
Magnetic test: compare magnetic adhesion with a magnetic to that
of a common nail.
Subject: AES Epoxy Tinting
Q:
I purchashed 50 gals of AES 125. The instructions on your web site
says it can be tinted by Sherwin-Williams but to email you for
instructions. Could you please send me the instructions.
A:
Tinting Instructions: Tint B side only (white side), using epoxy
compatible pigments (oil based).
Tint to lighter colors only. Dark
tints will not come out.
You just need to advise them that
these are epoxy based paints, and to tint using epoxy compatible
materials.
Dark shades will not tint well.
Stick to lighter shades. The AES factory can tint darker shades on
large orders.
Subject: EPDM Roofing System, RV
Trailer Roofing Repairs
Q:
I’m trying to get some information
on the right process or procedure including correct products and
materials to make appropriate repairs to my 31’-RV 5th wheel trailer
roofing EPDM system.
At the present time the 3-year old
EPDM roofing system is starting to produce Black streaks, and spots
all over the top of the membrane, and cracking to the fabric where
it transition over the edge of the roof and attaches to the side of
the RV.
Can you recommend a solution to
this problem, that I can perform with your products?
Other than washing the roof with
warm water and soap with a soft bristle brush and then rising it off
with cold water a few time a year, no other products have been
introduced to the existing roofing system. I was under the
impression that the existing EPDM roofing system would last at least
10-years? I’m in hopes that a product is available to bring the
existing roofing system back to its original white luster.
A:
The white EPDM roofs on most RVs are made with a layered white /
black membrane. The outer layer is white, and wears / erodes over
time. Under the white is the black layer. The appearance of the
black layer indicates the membrane is worn 1/2 way through. Its
likely 40 mil thick material, so what it left is pretty thin.
Yes, it should last 10 years in
my opinion. 3 years is REALLY short.
Depending on how long you wish to
keep your RV, we have a couple of solutions: coating or roof
replacement.
Roof replacement will cost about
$2 per sq ft in materials. This material is 60 mils thick and will
last a LONG time. It has a lifetime warranty when applied to a
home.
Roof Coating: It will, by
itself, last another 7-10 years, and will cost $.65 to $1.00 / sqft, depending on if you have leftover coating or not.
EDGES: If you are coating, these
are wrapped with Eternabond Roofseal, before coating.
Subject: Backer rod and expansion
joint sealant
Q:
I have had a new exposed aggregate driveway put in. The expansion
joints are 3/8 inch wide and 1-1.5 inches deep. I was planning on
using Novalink SL ( self-leveling expansion joint sealant) with a
3/8 inch backer rod for the job. Is this the best option for the
life of the driveway? Also I was planning on sealing the driveway.
What product would you recommend?
A:
The backer rod needs to be at least 25% wider than the joint to
set tightly and seal. So, perhaps 5/8" closed cell would be best.
You can purchase this by the foot here:
Concrete waterproofing sealers.
These silane based products, which penetrate well and provide long
lasting protection. They dry flat, but will increase the look of
the area.
Acrylic based products dry with
some sheen. But they do not breathe well and can show white spots
during humid periods:
Subject:
Application of SL1 -Expansion Joint Fillers
Q: Can you tell me what kind of
equipment (Pump or Gun) I need to use 4 gallons of SL1 filler
materials. If equipment is available then how much it cost.
I have 1” wide
and 500’ of expansion length to cover.
A:
There are two methods for dispensing BULK SL1. I like this simple
one:
You can dispense it with a
fine-spout squeeze bottle, like this:
Or, just dispense from the
tubes (most popular):
Subject: 24X30 galvanized gable
louver vent Dimensions
Q: Regarding dimensions. I am
not familiar with "call-out".
1. I assume for
a 24"x30" vent, 24"x30" is the size of the hole for the vent. 2. The
louvers that extend into the hole are 23-1/2"x29-1/2" (1/2" less).
3. The overall flange size is 25"x31" (1-1/2" more than the louvers
in #2).
I will need two
vents to obtain the necessary free air area. One 24"x24" and one
24"x30".
A:
Here are answers, regarding FLUSH MOUNT designs:
1. 24"x30" vent: 24"x30" is the
size of the hole for the vent. YES.
2. The louvers that extend into
the hole are 23-1/2"x29-1/2" (1/2" less). YES
3. Overall flange size is
26"x32". FLANGE IS 1-1/2" WIDE. EACH
SIDE "OVERLAPS" the LOUVER OPENING BY ABOUT 1/2".
I will need two vents to obtain
the necessary free air area. One 24"x24" and one 24"x30".
Subject: RV Rubber Roof Repair
Q:
I need to replace the EPDM Rubber roof on my 25Ft fifth wheel
. Could you give me a price for a kit to re-do my roof. Roof is 7
ft wide and 25 ft long.
A:
Here is a sample order for a 10 x 30 foot roof area:
After you click the above link,
press BUY NOW to load all the items to a shopping cart. You can
then edit the cart for your project and needs.
For your 7 x 25 foot roof (175
square feet), you can choose to do this in one piece or with
seams. Seams, when made to specifications are very durable and
nothing to be concerned about.
So, you could purchase 22 feet
(x 10 wide), and make this into 3 "strips" which would create 2
seams in the roof. Or you could purchase one piece, 10 x 26 feet
(we always add a foot for any errors in measurements).
For the SEAMS if you choose
this, you will need to increase WHITE EPDM COVERSTIP TAPE (item 4)
to increase to 15 feet (to make 2, 7-foot pieces). Otherwise you
can delete this item.
For the LC-60 BONDING ADHESIVE,
you will need less. Only about 3 gallons. Add 3-gallons of this
item, and eliminate the 5G can:
RV Roof Replacement Pictorial (use together with above guides)
Subject: Concrete Seam Sealer around Pool Coping
Q: I was wondering if you could recommend a sealer. I have a 1/2 to
3/4
seam between the pool coping and the coolcrete (asbestos decking). I
can't find a product that fits this description, can you point me to
one? I would prefer a commercial solution in place of a consumer
one,
but I am open to some degree.
A:
The products designed for concrete type expansion joints are "Self
Leveling Sealants". There are several types. Novalink SL is good as
it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single
component and is quick curing, but not a tough as Polyurethane SL.
Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a
straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as
soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a
depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Subject: Waterproofing Residential
Basement Concrete Walls
Q:
I am looking for a product that can be applied to the exterior of a
residential basement wall to waterproof it. I am digging out the
wall wand will repair any cracks, but I want to apply a membrane an
or a coating that will waterproof the walls. Can you suggest a
product live in the Chicago area.
A:
We have a few products for this application.
HLM5000 is a liquid product with
some flexibility:
Its available in spray, roller
and self leveling grades.
Thoroseal is a Cementitious
product, similar to what is used inside pools:
More information about the
products and application is in the links above.
Subject: WATERPROOFING SEALANT FOR SWIMMING POOL
Q:
I am remodeling a pool for a client. They have a upper pool
that spills over into a lower pool and there is tile on both
sides of the spill over wall. They have had a problem with
moisture leaching through this wall and causing efflorescence
(calcium deposits) on the lower tile wall. I am looking for a
waterproofing product that I can paint onto the back of the
spillover wall which will prevent any moisture from seeping
through. I will have to put tile on top of the waterproofing
product. Do you have any product that will do this? I am most
concerned with making the tile stick and not pop off.
A:
We have worked on pool repairs for resorts, where the tiles fell off
(along the water line) due to water getting behind them.
Tile Repair: Lower water line to below the tiles. Remove remaining
loose tiles. Scrap surface. Reset tiles using M1 structural sealant.
Then grout the lines between tiles with M1, or waterproof grout. We
used M1 white color for this by applying masking tape to grout
areas, applying M1, tooling and removing tape. It was a very clean
look.
Also, its most important to caulk the pool-wall to deck
intersection. This is usually grouted and the grout crack quickly as
its not flexible. Then water gets in behind and causes all kinds of
damage & corrosion. You can use M1 there or a textured sealant like
TX1 in off white color or other matching grout color. M1 will last
longer.
We also reset tiles at the bottom of a resort pool while it was
filled. In this case, tiles were scraped, M1 applied then a person
dived down and set tiles (wiggled them around to spread the sealant
and work it against the surface. Moisture accelerates the cure of
M1. A link to this product is here.
Subject: Sealing Gap Between Driveway and House
Q:
I
have a gap between my driveway and my house that is allowing water
to penetrate my basement walls. The previous home owner used backer
rod and a self leveling caulk. Unfortunately, I don't think the rod
was big enough. I see you sell larger diameter rods. I would like to
order some.
A:
This gap is an
expansion joint and is simple to waterproof.
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are
"Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the
Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is
pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Subject: Vertical Expansion Joints,
Tilt-Wall Construction Sealant
Q:
We are looking for the correct sealant and backer rod for a
vertical control joint. We have had problems in the past with
painting over sealants and backer rods.
A:
We re-did our own building a few years back (its about 25 years old,
tilt-wall concrete). You call see it here (top and bottom of the
page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/contact.aspx
It had large irregular vertical
expansion joints which had failed, and a LOT of expansion going on
in the corner joints. We removed all old materials, set in
Soft Backer Rod,
and sealed corner joints with Sonolastic 150:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
In the center joints we used NP1,
which is less expensive:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
Following this we painted the
building using ThoroCoat 200, with a factory tinted standard color:
http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/documents/tc2_tdg.pdf
The painted went over all the
expansion joint sealants. We have had no cracking, peeling or other
problems.
Subject: BUILDING UP SLOPE ON WOOD
DECK
Q: Which product can I use to
build up a slope and fill low areas on a wood deck before adding
waterproofing layer?
A: To add some slope or fill low
areas, you can use Super Putty. Its designed for filling ponding
water areas. Its applied with a trowel in 1/4" layers, and built-up
as needed. The base deck needs to be power washed, then dry. Primer
may be needed, depending on surface. Following this, apply the
Sonoguard Deck Coat system.
Super Putty:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Primers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15679
More Information on Deck Coating :
wood
based decks
Subject: RV roofing, recommended
thickness of EPDM
Q: I have a travel trailer that
needs the roof replaced. My question is what product is best for
this application, the 45 mil. Or the 60 mil.?
A: The 60 mil is MUCH better
than the 45 for trailers. Its more than 1/3 stronger, and the
outside surface will outlast the 45 mil by many years. White 60 mil
is best. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
Samples of both can be now ordered
here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=EPDM%20sample
Subject: RV EPDM Roofing
Replacement
Q: I need to replace my RV Roof.
The horizontal roof surface is about 7' 10" X 19'. I think the EPDM
should be at least 9' X 21'. Penetrations include three 14"-squares
(1 A/C, 2 vents), two 14"X16" rectangles (skylights), 3 antennas,
square hot water vent, round plumbing vent.
A: We suggest you consider an
order like this, then add some for errors and margin:
EPDM ROOFING: 10x21 feet.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
LC-60 ADHESIVE for an area of 150
Sq.ft, 3 Gallons:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16077
New Butyl Rubber Sealant (goes
under termination bar at perimeter:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9591
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16309
Penetrations: Its best to remove
all these, then reinstall after putting the EPDM roofing down. It
makes the application of the EPDM MUCH easier. Then, on the square
items, such as A/C, you can apply a second layer of cover strip
which overlaps the flange of the A/C unit and the new EPDM roofing:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
ALSO apply cover strip along front
edge, where EPDM meets roof line. Overlap the two to form a DOUBLE
layer EPDM seam.
Apply primer before cover strip. do not apply primer where cover
strip will not cover as it will discolor.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16490
Use M1 sealant for all the other
penetrations and any detail areas. Also, apply a dab of sealant on
screw threads when installing them and then over all exposed screw
heads. I would buy 5-6 tubes. :
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14959
Be sure all traces of any silicone
sealants is removed and the surface is clean before applying M1.
Silicone products will readily zip off most surfaces and be somewhat
rubber band like. Get rib of all of them. Then use this cleaner
where the silicone was:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Antennas and small pipes can also
be permanently sealed well with these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16054
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16164
Prior to applying EPDM membrane you
may wish to reinforce any seams with Webseal:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11850
MORE INFORMATION: This has some
great photos
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/EPDM-Roof-Replacement.pdf
Subject: Sonoguard Coating products
Q: I was wondering if Sonoguard
can be applied to a vertical surface. I'd like to apply it to the 8"
side of my deck?
A:
You can apply Sonoguard by roller in coats to build up the layer
thickness. I would try a 3/8" nap roller:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10070
After cleaning and perhaps lightly
sanding (like you were going to paint it), a light coat of primer
would be good
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11222
Properly, each deck post is flashed
with metal which is nailed to both the post and the deck, then the
metal is primed with the above primer. Then a layer of NP1 is
applied and fiberglass web is embedded in it. This is applied in the
area where the metal overlaps the deck surface.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=17004
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9698
More examples of details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF
Subject: Enviroseal 40
Concrete/Masonry Silane Penetrating Sealer
Q: I have a new home that was
just completed. During HEAVY wind-driven rains my brick chimney is
allowing water to seep inside the house. I would prefer not to have
to redo the flashing that my brick mason did not make extend
completely through the mortar joints and then turn up (which seems
to be the correct method) and after studying a little research I
think your penetrating sealer will hopefully fix my problem. Is the
40% Silane the correct product to use for my application?
A:
The Enviroseal is good to protect from moisture absorption in
masonry from wind driven rains. The flashing may be functioning
correctly, but the water is penetrating the masonry itself. The
Enviroseal is designed for this. More information is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16483
Here is a link to product data
sheet if you did not see it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/e40_tdg.pdf
The Enviroseal 20 may also be
suitable and is lower cost.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
TWO applications are best. The
first will absorb in. The second will better close the surface.
Subject: Roof
Leaks
Q: I've got roofing
problems, lots of contractor advice and sealants that just don't
make the grade. Request your input. Current Leaks:
1. Rainfall with steady drip from the top edge of every roof vent
facing the West with winds general blowing West to East;
2. Coming down the HVAC exhaust pipe--suspect the flashing;
3. Inner wall/living room cathedral ceiling juncture leak--unknown
source. HVAC tubing and a PVC pipe run above the water stained area
and a vaulted 2/4 meets down to a cross beam. No signs of staining
in attic; piping dry to the touch. blown and rolled insulation dry
to the touch. Note: had sat up in the attic during a light rain; no
signs of water and looked at surrounding area plywood and 2x4's for
moisture and staining: none. No signs of water to be had.
Suggestions they've offered:
1. place diverters over vents;
2. Remove vents and replace by adding a less severe roof extension
from the rooftop to allow for covered, horizontal ventilation;
3. re-wrap HVAC piping and piping sleeves;
4. Cover siding vents--they are 1'x2' horizontal slat vents with no
screening or fan attachment;
Materiel used but does not resolve anything:
1. Standard silicone for roof shingling.
A: Of course its hard to solve
unknown leak locations from afar. But it sound like the windblown
rain is the cause -- likely coming through your vents. You also
could have defective underlayment. The underlayment is the item
which provides the waterproofing. It its perforated, this needs to
be repaired. The tiles over the top are to provide UV and mechanical
protection for the underlayment. Water will leak through tiles, and
its the underlayment job to carry it away. Seams in underlayment may
need to be sealed as well. Commonly, the underlayment curls up and
dries out around the flashings and valleys, or is not sealed well
against the flashings. This should be addressed. You may have to
remove all the roof tiles, and replace the entire underlayment and
reflash / reseal all the penetration areas. RoofSeal Black is a good
underlayment repair / reflashing product.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11337
Dormer vent jacks are recommended
for wind driven rain vents. They are applied under the vent, then
the vent is applied over it:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10439
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9843
Silicones are not recommended in
general roofing and waterproofing. They will not retain long term
adhesion and will contaminate surface for other materials.
Subject:
Expansion joint replacement
Q: I have an expansion joint 2-1/4
inches wide and about 50 ft long. I think I need 3" closed cell
backer rod and Novalink SL. If I understand correctly the backer rod
needs to be set at a depth of 1".
Not sure how
much sealant is required?
A: In general, backer rod is set
to a depth of 1/2 the width, but most sealants should not be cast
thicker than 1/2 inch. So, you should set it to achieve about 1/2"
depth.
Technical Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
To order product and more info:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
How much sealant? See our
Estimating Guide.
Since you are about 2-1/4 x 1/2, you will use (dividing the 2-1/4 x
1/2 into two sizes):
1/2 x 1-1-4 = 1.4 ft / 10 oz tube = 50 ft /1.4 = 36 tubes
plus 1/4 x 1 = 6.4 / 2 (for 1/2 x 1) = 50 ft / 3.2 = 16 tubes
36 + 16 tubes = 52 tubes of 10 oz, which is 520 ounces total.
For 28 oz tubes you will need 520/28= 19 tubes, plus some extra for
waste, and miscalculation.
We are not responsible for accuracy of calculations. The above is an
example only.
Generally, its not recommended to fill the sealant all the way to
the top surface edge. Just below this is best to keep tire rub out
of the picture. Complete curing may take 2-3 days for this thick of
section.
Subject: Rolling
Tool for Dispensing Sealant
Q: I am looking for a stand-up
rolling tool to dispense sealant for roadway work. What product
would you recommend, along with bulk loaders.
A:
Our largest ROLLING sealant application gun is the 720-G01, 2.5
quart. It is air powered. We special order these for customers.
Caulking Loaders: Here are some common ones:-
Subject: Best
Product for Gray Grout / Mortar Joints
Q: I am looking for a product to
seal and water proof gray mortar joints between stone veneer and
between stone veneer and Millard Window frames. What product would
you recommend.
A: We suggest TX1, textured
sealant. Its available in popular colors, but the natural stone will
be very close to natural limestone/gray cement colored grout:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11775
Subject: AES-450 Custom Color
Tinting
Q:
Your sales literature says the above product is available in other
colors then white by special order. How does one do that and what is
the extra charge if any?
A:
For AES-140, AES-100 and AES-125 pre-tinted white or gray are
available as standard.
But you can have the white
tinted by any Sherwin Williams paint center to most lighter tint
colors. You cannot tint to Dark with this base. Have them use EPOXY
grade tints.
Subject: Driving Rain and Chimney
Leaks
Q:
We have a brick chimney which leaks during driving rains. What
clear product is available to seal it?
A:
Driving rain on
vertical stone walls and chimneys are commonly sealed with
Enviroseal 20 (2-coats):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16699
You can also re-flash the chimney
to roof area with metal faced flashing tape. One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16773
Subject: EPDM Roof Replacement
over old roof
Q:
Can you install a new white rubber roof over an old rubber roof or
do you have to take the old roof off first?
A:
Yes, its possible to install new over old. The key thing to assure
before doing this is that the adhesion of the old roof is very
good. Repair as needed.
Installation of new EPDM membrane: 1. Clean AND prime the old EPDM
roof membrane. Use EPDM primer only:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
2. Use EPDM adhesive only:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=lc-60
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
3. We recommend reinforcing with
a secondary EPDM coverstrip tape on all new seams and edge areas.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=coverstrip
Subject: Waterproofing System For
Parking Garages
Q:
We own a large
property with a underground parking garage that has a parking lot
covering the top level. The upper level is 35+ years old and we
are planning to remove and redesign the entire Parking lot. We
plan on taking the top layer off to the Garage concrete deck. We
would like to cover the concrete (garage roof section) with a
waterproofing material before replacing the Parking lot. Can you
suggest the proper material and procedure for this project?
A:
This is a popular
waterproof, vehicular traffic grade waterproofing and deck
coating:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/sgd_tdg.PDF
Follow, page 4, HEAVY-DUTY
TRAFFIC SYSTEM for the top and EXTRA-HEAVY DUTY SYSTEM for the
turning areas, such as ramps. Product details are here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
We can consult with you about the
preparation details and dealing with any cracks.
FYI, Concrete Repair Items are
here. There is a nice link to a parking garage repair article:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Concrete-Repair.aspx#PARKING
Subject: Rubber Roof Coating
Q:
What is the difference between the AES-100FR coating and the
AES-125FR coating,. I am looking for the best coating to put on my
RV rubber roof that is already there.
A:
The AES-100FR, is a product which has flame retardant which will
be active during the liquid stage. AES-125 is the same product
without the extra flame retardant, and its less expensive.
BOTH products are equally flame
retarded in the fully CURED stage.
RV Rubber Roof coating: This is a
great product for this coating. When coating EPDM roofs we have
found priming is needed with ALL coatings. Use EPDM primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=multipurpose%20primer
The AES products are epoxy based.
They are very durable. The bright white will turn somewhat
off-white after a period but stay dirt pick-up resistant (dirt
washes off easy). We find other coatings have problems with
chalking, running, wear-out from UV, collecting dirt and other
problems.
2 coats of AES is best for
getting even coverage. Less expensive but still very good is the Roofmate HT. It is a high tensile version. Its an acrylic and will
chalk somewhat long-term.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
Before coating, repair any seams.
Use Eternabond RoofSeal or Webseal.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Eternabond.aspx
Subject: EPDM roofing material
and quantity estimation
Q:
I want to get some pricing for an EPDM roofing "kit" for a
75 x 55 square ft roof.
A:
This materials estimator will help you figure out your exact
quantities:
Estimating Calculator
From that estimate, add whatever
surplus you think you need and we can quote it and the freight, or
you can add these items to the shopping cart here, and freight
costs can be calculated during the checkout (UPS LTL FREIGHT
option).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
and
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16226
View the bottom of the above link
for related accessories.
Subject: Solar Panel Mounting on
a Metal Roof
Q:
I want to install solar collectors on a traditional metal roof. I
need to make 2 penetrations through the roof for the water lines-
one 3/4" copper and 1 1/2" copper. I am quite confused by the
variety of products you offer. I want best quality/longest life
materials since I never want to fool with this again!
A:
We recommend
silicone flashing boots. You have two options for each pipe size,
depending on your access to installing them (new or retrofit type
installation):
3/4" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
1-1/2" pipes:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16555
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16155
(the above is the same as used in
the 3/4" pipe. I would probable choose the 16155 item.
Subject: Slate Pool Deck Coating
Q:
Do you have a product that would work as a clear coat over slate
next to a pool? If so would there be a non slip additive for it?
A:
Around the pool there is of course a lot of water, and its
absorbed by the surrounding materials. It then needs to evaporate
out. When you apply a gloss coating (almost any kind), it can trap
the moisture resulting in milky appearance in the coating. (this
is a particular problem with flagstone materials). Slate is
more dense, but we still cannot endorse this application.
There
are NON-glossy, breathable coatings which help with stain
resistance. Here are some to consider:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1064
Always test your application.
Subject: polyester fabric types
Q:
Which of your
products is woven polyester fabric? Could you tell me the spec of
it? D you also have non-woven fabric?
A:
We have both woven
and spun bond polyester fabrics. If you click on the links below
you can see sizes. Click on that and it will show detail page.
Detail page has specification or a link to data sheet (depending
on the product).
Firm
Face Polyesters, T326, Tietex
Soft
Face Polyester Fabrics,
T272, Tietex
Spun-Bond
Polyester Fabrics
Subject: Dirt Resistant Caulking /
Sealant
Q: I need to
know if there is a caulk that will work for the windows and brick
pockets that will not attract dirt and turn an ugly brown in our dusty
West Texas climate. Everything I have ever used that I bought locally
becomes dirty and brown as the dust is drawn to it and adheres unless
there is at least two coats of paint covering the caulk soon after
application, which is not an option in this application. The caulk I
am hoping to find will close gaps between an off white brick to white
metal at the windows and white painted wood brick pockets to a tan
colored brick.
A: We have
tested MANY sealants for long term performance. We like to see how
they behave, regardless of the manufacturers claims. Definitely, all
will collect some degree of dirt and water spots, like windows and
areas at the bottom of them. The question is how easily do they clean
up, say with the squirt of a hose.
Our experience is that most common sealants,
including polyurethane and polyether, all look bad after a couple
years and, like windows, do not clean easily up without a good scrub
and some soapy cleaner (the hose by itself does not work). Also, many
window cleaners will deteriorate the bond of the sealant unless
cleaners are washed away from the joint areas.
The best performer we have seen is a specialty
high temperature silicone sealant. It attracts a LOT less dirt, and
cleans up nicely with a high pressure hose wash. I think the silicone
aspect of the chemistry resists dirt / cleans up better. As this
particular product is REALLY good. Its different than most silicones
in that its very strong (takes abrasive / scrubbing well), and has
better adhesion chemistry -- it will stick to most everything VERY
well. Here is a link to more information about this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16896
The negative to silicone, is that PAINT does not
like to STAY stuck to it. It looks adhered at first, but later, paints
will come off. So, its important to pick a PRETINTED color silicone
sealant.
Subject: 6 AND 8" T-TOP ROOF VENTS
APPLICATIONS
Q:
What is the height of the vents? Do they fit pitched 4/12 roofs?
A:
We have updated this product description to show the height (7-8
inches) and the application (to 4/112 pitch):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9885
There is also a screened top
option.
Subject:
Eternabond Installation Temperature
Q: What is the installation
temperature range of Eternabond Products?
A: Eternabond can be installed
down to 40F without any special preparation. Between -20F and +40F,
the addition of EternaPrime primer is recommended.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
Here is a link
to cold weather repair video using EternaPrime and Eternabond: Cold
Weather Repair
Cold Weather Repair
Subject: Leaking
Pitched Shingled Roof with Solar Panel
Q: I have an application where
solar panels are mounted to a sloped shingle roof. The panel legs
are fastened directly over the roof shingles. It is at these
locations that leaks occur as a result of the fasteners penetrating
the shingles and past inferior patching efforts. Do you offer a
Retrofit pipe flashing boot that will work with asphalt shingles?
A: Unfortunately, its common.
Properly, the Z clip should have had a LONG foot which went under /
between the shingles, and was attached, with a shingle covering it.
We have several options for you. If you can kindly take a photo and
send to us, we can better recommend the solutions (we need
dimensions of the item).
There are
several options. Briefly- 1. Remove screw / z clip and apply
doublestick sealant under the Z where it contacts the asphalt
shingle. Apply a bead of M1 sealant to screw shank and reattached.
Use ROOFING screws (with seal washers) if they are not already used.
Then run a bead of M1 around the screw for exta insurance.
Materials:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10440
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/stainless-steel-metal-screws-washers-539.html
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=evergrip
2. Skip the
first step above, applying M1 sealant all around the perimeter of
the Z clip. Do all the rest.
3. Use a closed
boot and cut a slit for the Z clip. Remove Z clip, slip boot over.
Follow #1 above, then finally attach boot over everything. If this
will work depends on the dimensions of the Z clip and surrounding
items.
Where pipes or
wires run through the roof, use the Retrofit boots and M1 or
silicone sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx
Subject: Roof Ventilator Mounting on a Metal Roof
Q:
How do roof ventilator heads mount on a metal building roof with
ribbed roof panels? Do you sell the mountings and are they shaped to
conform with with the bends in the roof panel.
A:
This installation can be accomplished by either attached a flashing
base to the roof, and sealing both to the underlayment, and to the
metals panels, then attaching head.
OR building a curb base, sealing curb base to underlayment and metal
roof system, and attached head. You would do something similar,
flashing to the underlayment and again to the metal roof panels.
Alternatively, in a retrofit, you could cut the hold, attach base
with sealant and roofing screws, then apply a flashing system over
this. This could be a secondary EPDM Rubber boot like one of these:
Or you could apply flashing tape, such as this (which can be used
if sealing base to the underlayment as well:
In general, you want to create a dual-seal system.
You may wish to consider the solar fans, so that you have less
penetrations / installations to do. You may save a lot in
installation, paying for the cost of the better ventilation. These
are nice:
AV-18 Items are here:
AV-24 are here:
Do not forget to create good AIR INTAKE for the exhaust fans.
Subject: Basement Waterproofing in new construction
Q:
I am looking to purchase a waterproofing system for custom home I am
building in the Spring. What products would you
recommend for a 10' tall Insulated Concrete Form wall. I was
thinking of a waterproof membrane rolled down vertically, with a
drain mat on top of that, and two drains outside of that.
A:
We suggest to consider these items for that approach:
Be sure and waterproof all the way down and over the footing, and
caulk joints first with a good sealant. Novalink is compatible with
the HLM5000 materials:
Drains: a perforated french drain buried in drainage rock etc.,
along the footing area is good practive.
Other good practices are grading the top soil away from the house
and good drainage away from the house of gutters and downspouts.
Subject: EPDM Cold Weather Repair
Q:
I'm a contractor who has been asked to fix a loose "seam" where the
EPDM has been stretched over the end of the roof on to a masonry
ledge (block wall ... block cap) overlapping the ledge (used as drip
edge - at the edge of the roof it does a 90 down approx. 3"). The
inside would be the masonry and the outside would be the EPDM.
The approx.
outside working temp will range from 20 to 30 degrees. What repair
do you recommend?
A: We suggest 2" wide
Eternabond DOUBLESTICK together with EternaPrime for this cold
weather EPDM seam repair. Here are links to more information about
these items and application:
Cold Weather Repair Video:
Subject: Cold room caulking for
concrete floor cuts
Q:
Please send a suggestion for caulking for a cold room condition with
temperature of 34 to 36 degrees Fahrenheit. We have saw cuts 1/8"
wide and ¾" deep in the concrete floor and the walls are pre
finished panels with premium ceramic, polyester coating. We have
forklift traffic in this area. The materials will be applied during
construction phase (not cold).
A:
For sealing and protecting saw cut concrete joints from traffic
damage, two products are commonly used:
Epolith: Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/epg_tdg.pdf
About $112 / gallon, has 75%
elongation, 655 psi tensile, 85 shore A hardness and is a 2-part
epoxy, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in concrete floors.
Provides a puncture and abrasion resistant seal.
TF-100: Data Sheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/scj_tdg.pdf
About $427 / gallon, has 470%
elongation, 1975 psi tensile, 85-90 shore A hardness and is a
2-component polyurea, formulated for filling saw-cut joints in
concrete floors. Provides a high load seal to resist forklift and
hard wheel traffic. Also works well to fill random cracks.
TF-100 is much more expensive
(50%), and requires a special 2-part mixing caulk gun.
Carefully read the product data
sheets to study application.
Alternatively you could use an
expansion joint filler, but this is not designed to protect saw cuts
from hard wheeled traffic.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205
Subject: Deck repair for ponding
water problem.
Q:
I have a large plywood deck over living space that is
finished with a urethane deck system. Over time there has been some
settlement creating a minor pond area. Can I use the Sonoguard Self
Leveling Base material to fill this area, and then apply a new
urethane coating to the whole deck? Also, over time some small
shallow dents have appeared, approximately 1/4" dia. X 8/8" deep.
What caulk or filler do I use prior to re-coating the deck.
A:
You are on the right track in looking at fixing the ponding water
problem. The cause of the settlement of your deck should be
carefully investigated (rotted wood/ inadequate support structure or
?). Also, the root cause of cracks should be looked into. These are
generally, framing related or incorrectly built decking (nailed not
screwed, no use of tongue-groove plywood, use of particle board
rather than exterior grade plywood, etc). Generally, cracked seams
are ground down to expose the wood, screws added in the needed
areas, then reinforced with glass mesh embedded in a base coat
stripe. We cannot help you with these structural issues.
Ponding water areas can be filled
with these materials:
for thicker sections:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10685
Applied in build-up layers (easier
to use)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11647
Cracked Seams are repaired with
these materials: Bridge all deep field cracks, joints and flashing
areas by apply 4" white fiberglass 20x20 mesh tape embedded in
Sonoguard basecoat or NP1 sealant. Use a 3-course process to hide
seams. This is much like taping a drywall joint wherein you taper
joint to adjacent surfaces. Sonoguard basecoat:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
NP1 Product Info
Fiberglass Webbing Info
You can use the NP1 as a filler for
the small dents prior to basecoat. Sonoguard system (base and
topcoat both needed):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930 Note: ALL
traces of silicone sealants must be removed before doing any work.
Then follow the general procedures for wood based decks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx#Wood%20Based%20Deck%20Repairs
Subject: AC roof penetrations retro
fit
Q:
The “AC FLASHING BOOT SYSTEM, 3-PIPE, ROUND BASE” page
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16331 mentions the
availability of other top seal options. I will be adding new seals
to an installation where the owner, in a burst of DIY enthusiasm,
ran gas lines for four AC units through a "tar pot" on a flat roof.
Since he left the tube insulation in place and didn’t bother with
drip loops or a weather shield of any kind, he created a very nice
funnel with which to decorate interior ceilings and walls. The lines
come in from three directions and have very little slack for
repositioning. The electrical feeds are all in EMT and don’t seem to
be a problem as yet but will be under a new cover with seals to make
sure that the “funnel” will not develop another water source. What
top seal configurations are available for pipe/tubing and are they
available for purchase without a base?
A:
You may wish to consider CHEMCURBS. These are round dams
which are filled with sealant to seal around multiple pipes or
irregular shapes. One like this:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16749 Here are
some more options:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=749
and
http://www.bestmaterials.com/searchresult.aspx?categoryid=1170
Subject: Very Large Size Retrofit
Pipe Flashing Boots
Q:
I would like to get more information on the retrofit pipe flashing
boots. We are looking for an outside application for piping from 2"
up to 24" diameter. Is this something that you carry or can be
manufactured?
A:
For pipes from 1/8 to 16-1/4 inch in diameter, you use a regular
retrofit pipe flashing boot:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/retrofit_pipe_flashing_boots.aspx
For larger pipes, you take two
boots, cut them up the side. Then apply each boot, with the second
one overlapping the first like two inverted C's. Use high-temp/high
strength silicone sealant to seal the gap and the two boots
together. For 24" pipes, you use two of these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14996
Subject: Butyl tape for seams on
galvalume steel buildings
Q:
I am building some steel span buildings and would like to get some
butyl tape. What do you recommend (I saw the mb10 a type would be
good).
A:
The Butyl tape we sell is the most popular product for
sealing seams in metal building roofs. This size is mostly used:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=8984
Other popular metal roofing items
include:
Roofing screws with sealing
washers:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/sheet-metal-screws-sealing-washers-545.html
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=843
Pipe Flashings:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
Subject: roof jack gas pipe venting
question please
Q:
I am re-roofing a shed with a 5" gas vent pipe coming through the
roof, and using corrugated steel panels. My vent collar is a flat
metal piece attached to the pipe. I need something that will make a
seal / transition to the corrugated roofing.
A:
To seal this area, you use a High Temperature Silicone Boot.
Carefully measure your pipe diameter. Pick the boot which has this
size as the minimum.
Like this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15602
Of course, your pipe needs to be
mounted to provide clearance, as per manufacturers recommendations.
Here is a link to additional information on hot pipe / gas venting
installation:
Hot Pipe - Gas Pipe Venting
Subject: Pipe Boot for Firestone
TPO Membrane
Q:
Do you guys sell a pipe boot that will adhere to a 045 Firestone TPO
membrane?
A:
Commonly our EPDM pipe boots are used, and sealed with M-1 sealant
which is applied over a surface primed with TPO Primer. Here are
links to these items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/m1-structural-sealant-1090.html
Datasheet:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/m1-sealant.pdf
Pipe flashings:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/masterflash_sizes_and_materials.aspx
Pipe Flashing Boots in WHITE:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1175
We also have prefabricated TPO
weldable boots as well, if interested let us know which ones and how
many and we can get a quote for you.
http://www.flashcomfg.com/downloads/singleply-all.pdf
Subject: LOOKING TO FIREPROOF ROOF
Q:
I have a 5,000 sq ft flat tar roof. I would like to find a fire
proof material to lay on top which will waterproof and protect or
slow down fire, as much as possible. Do you have or can you
recommend such material?
A:
This
product has a UL fire rating:
Apply this over a fire resistant sheet / slipsheet
On top of the final coating you could apply a loose layer of roofing
granules for further protection:
Subject: Tilt Wall Caulk
Recommendation
Q:
What would I use to re-caulk expansion joints on a concrete tilt
wall construction?
A:
We used NP1 and Sonolastic 150 on our building when we
repainted it a few years back:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/contact.aspx
The Sonolastic 150 was used in the
corner joints (which have a lot of movement), and NP1 in the others.
We installed it over new soft or closed cell backer rod. We also
used the NP1 to patch minor cracks in the walls. Here is a link to
these items
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1066
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
Subject: Backer rod/sealant for
sloped surfaces
Q:
We are going to be using closed cell backer rod to fill an expansion
joint. We want to use the self-leveling sealant, but I was wondering
if this will work if placed on a slope. The expansion joint is
sloped at 6-1, so I want to make sure we can use the self-leveling
sealant at this slope.
A:
The self leveling product will definitely have a problem.
BASF also offers SL1 in a SLOPE GRADE. But even the 6:1 slope grade
is too much for this slope. I suggest you consider regular Novalink
which will cure pretty quick and give you the same properties.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
Subject: EPDM tape adhesion to wood
Q:
WILL WHITE EPDM COVERSTRIP TAPE, 6 INCH WIDE (per foot)
EPDM-309813-1 adhere to wood?
A: Yes, this will stick
very well to wood (dry wood).
Subject: RE: RV Roof--Aluminum
Q:
The roof is an RV metal roof--there is foot traffic for maintenance
purposes. It is a very old RV and there are low places on the roof
where water tends to pool. The seams are crimped channel with lap
sealant and a thick fibrous tape like overlay from what I can tell.
There are other roof penetrations with either screws or rivets and a
fairly thick sealant over that. I cannot tell what type of product
is on there now--I have removed all the loose product and scrubbed
the surface with a mild water and greased lightening product (soapy
degreaser) and rinsed it as best I could without saturating the
roof. It has leaked in the past and I am sure still will until a
good topping is put over the entire roof with special attention to
the seams and penetrations.
A:
We
recommend you review this metal roof guide. It will give you a good
general sense of what to do:
Before coating, seal any cracked areas with a good sealant such as
M1:
RoofMate Coating can be found here:
Subject: Driveway Expansion Joints
product inquiry
Q:
I am looking for a
product to fill the expansion joints on my driveway. The gaps are
approximately 3/4" wide, tapering narrower at the bottom.
Approximate depth up to 3/4". I would like something that is
self-leveling if possible. I have about 400 lineal feet to fill. Can
you recommend one of your products? I had a recommendation to use
Sonneborn SL1. I saw the SL1 in 28 oz caulk tube, or 2 gallon pail.
How would I apply it if I went with the pail? - From the information
on your website, it looks like I would need a backer rod. Which one
would be the best to use?
A:
We suggest the 28 oz. tubes. They are MUCH easier to dispense.
We
also suggest Novalink SL, because it cures quickly, and handles
joints up to 2" wide.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16205
Apply with this tool:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14785
If you choose a pail, you can apply
with a
squeeze bottle.
Quantity: Each 28 oz tube will
yield about 16 feet of 3/4 wide x 3/8 deep joint area. So you will
need 25 tubes, plus a few extra. Closed Cell backer rod would
be best for a ground application:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Subject: water proofing an existing
basement with bad walls
Q:
I
live in a house that was built in
1950's and it has poorly mixed concrete foundation. I've done the
dry lock thing but water finds other areas to come in . I drilled
where the cracks are and some times it's only 4" I hit dirt outside
so then I put the stop leak concrete in it .Do you a product for my
problem before i dig up out side and tackle it .
A:
We
suggest you consider Thoroseal cementitious waterproofing
Subject:
Waterproofing an
Existing Basement
Q:
I have a old house on a stone walled
basement. It has mortar between it joints. Houses was expanded on
may years back with a block. I have just dug up around house and am
installing a drywell system. I would like to seal the walls to keep
moisture out, if possible.
A:
Here is some information on
basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing
basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be
there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill
terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems,
we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of
repair person, how permanent of a fix you want, odor during repairs
and interior decorating issues affects the options.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be
applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the
concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the
reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and
decomposition of the concrete and long term failure.
The prevention is to dig around
the outside down to the foundation footing and apply waterproof
layers and joint sealants to the outside, preventing the water
from getting into the concrete and joints. The floor is
more difficult. It must be torn up, have waterproofing membranes
laid down, then re-poured on top of this. All of which is WAY too
expensive in most cases.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing
basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
EXTERIOR:
PHASE 1:
1. Trench against the wall down to the footing. Lay a French drain in
gravel, cover top with silt screen.
2. Apply sealant to the foundation to wall interface as needed.
3. Apply a waterproof coating to both the footing and foundation wall. A product like HLM 5000:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
or a cementitious coating:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1197
All shrinkage and non-moving structural cracks under 1/16" shall be
primed then pretreated with not less than a 30 wet mil coating of HLM 5000
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15620
extending 3" on either side of the
crack. Bridge the joints, cracks, and flashing's with 4" (10 cm)
Straight Jacket Tape, pushing it into HLM 5000 with a trowel. Over the reinforcement tape apply a stripe coat
of HLM 5000 and smooth onto adjacent surface. All
cracks over 1/16", moving structural cracks and cold joints, shall
be routed to 1/4" wide by 1/4" deep, the area should be primed, a
joint backing shall be inserted and the void sealed with an
appropriate polyurethane sealant.
ALTERNATIVELY use a product such as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
4. Apply a drainage board against the wall.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/waterproofing-membrane-protection-board-610.html
5. Backfill so as not to disturb or puncture the waterproofing.
6. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts connect to drain pipes which take the water well away
from the house, and below the foundation grade.
PHASE 2 (Optional)
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope away
from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Option: Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide,
down in the topsoil of the graded area. Attached and seal the
waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the
top of the soil line.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16516
3. Option: Along the newly graded slope area, at the end
of the membrane, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless
screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The
"French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it away
from the house.
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water
absorbent.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all.
Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the soil
can still become saturated, and these actions may be less effective.
But in many situations, this works quite well.
INTERIOR:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing
sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash surfaces, if needed.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could
take a couple weeks.
4. If coating requires, Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating
waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. Cracks can be
filled/waterproofed with low pressure polyurethane foam injection or epoxy
injection products.
See Concrete Crack Repair Products.
A good waterproof
repair mortars are
EMACO GP
or
Water Plug for larger areas.
6. Apply a negative side waterproofing product such
as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16582
7. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
8. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not
already exist.
RE: wood deck coating /
waterproofing
Q: I have an outdoor wood deck
and was wondering what product you recommend for long wear. We
live in NY, so it is a cold climate and we have dogs that
regularly are on the deck. The deck is not new. Another web site
recommended Rhino Top.
A:
For wood deck which is over living space, Rhino Top is not
recommended as it is not a waterproofing product (although it has
great wear characteristics). Polyurethane deck finishes are the
toughest waterproofing deck coatings on the market (variation of
spray on truck bed liners). For first time applicators, the
Sonoguard system is the easiest:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Follow this general outline for
waterproofing most wood decks:
wood based decks
RE: Concrete Expansion Joint
Sealing / Repair Question
Q:
I am a homeowner and find your website very helpful (much more
helpful than anybody in the the home centers in my area!), and I
think you carry the products I need but I want to run it by you
first before ordering. I have some areas of the house where a
horizontal piece of concrete meets a vertical piece of concrete
(ex. concrete walkway that butts up against the concrete
foundation or a concrete step). This joint has a gap,
ranging in size from 1/4" to 1-1/8". This sealant is crumbling
away and is no longer doing it's job; plus it looks bad. What do I
need to repair this? I believe I need to remove the old
sealant and stuff the joint with backer rod, and then use some
sort of sealant on top of that. I obviously want to seal the
crack to prevent further damage, but I also desire a nice, clean,
smooth look when I'm done
A:
The concrete joints you have are treated as EXPANSION JOINTS. You
are on the right track for the waterproofing of this (backer rod +
sealant). The 100 % horizontal joints are filled with backer rod,
then self leveling sealant is applied over it. The vertical /
corner joints are filled with backer rod then caulked with
vertical grade sealant and tooled to finish the joint nicely.
Since most of yours are vertical / corner types, I would recommend
you consider this product for all the areas:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16221
The best backer rod for your
application is CLOSED CELL. Pick a size 25 to 50 % greater than
the gap.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
RE: Ponding Water
Q:
I have a 8 year old EPDM roof that does have ponded water. I would
like to use your Formflex 6000 roof coating. The other problem I
have is that the roof leaks in the Winter if I have Ice coating with
Snow on top. Your suggestions.
A:
The root CAUSE of the ponding water area needs to be
considered first. Possible causes: roof leak resulting in bowed
substrates, insulation, decking, or framing; other structural
problems; settling of building; or excessive snow load causing
bowing and accumulation of water during the snow load. If you let us
know what you suspect the causes are, how deep and the size of the
ponding areas, we can advise further. I would call out a roofer to
give you a repair estimate and see what they have to say. As to
coatings, you should also consider the ROOFMATE HT as a topcoat. Its
more durable. Use a primer on the EPDM first.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16573
EPDM PRIMER:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16014
SEAM REPAIRS: Use either Eternabond
tape, or primer + EPDM Cover Tape:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11341
or this with primer (its more
durable than the Eternabond):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
RE: Rhino Top Coating for Pool Deck
Q:
I am looking to re-coat my existing cool deck in a new color. Does
the entire deck area need to be primed with the Uni-Tile Sealer
first? Do you sell a product that would simulate the texture (knock
down) of the existing cool deck. I added two patio areas recently
that are bare concrete.
A:
Priming is recommended for all areas to be coated. It is the
key to great long-term adhesion.
The textured Rhino-Top, if applied
over all areas (existing knock-down cool deck AND bare concrete),
will have a somewhat uniform look, but not exact. We have a test
area done outside our warehouse you can look at to see what its
like. Most colors are shipped by the factory for each order.
Standard colors are quick to get. Custom colors take several days.
More info is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15024
RE: Pipe Flashing for Solar Panels
Q:
I am mounting solar panels on a regular asphalt shingle roof with a
pitch of 5/12. I am using standard 3/4" i.d. copper tubing. I need a
flashing that will stand temperatures of 220 degrees F on a regular
basis, with the possibility of temperatures up to 300 once in a
while. What do you recommend? How much is it? And how do I get it?
A:
There are two options for you, depending on when / how you wish to
install.
Number 1 is the best:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16616
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15001
If you need a retrofit type, then
these are the options:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16151
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14993
Sealants: A generous bead of M1
sealant is also advisable.
RE: Deck Re-Coating Project
Q:
I would like to try your product on a clients deck, there is an
existing deck coating however, it appears as though the last
contractor attempted to put a thin layer of color over an intact
membrane but the thin layer has failed. My questions are, 1.) should
we remove the entire thin layer before introducing your product?
2.)We will be pressure washing (3000 PSI.) to remove all loose and
peeling substances. If we need to remove all of it, how would you
recommend we do this to avoid damaging the membrane underneath? and
3.) Will we need the self leveling base coat over the entire deck
surface?
A:
I believe you are referring to our polyurethane type
walk-deck waterproofing / coating systems.
To recoat an existing deck with
another polyurethane type system (NOT ASPHALTIC) you generally do
this (assuming the base system does not leak and has no cracks):
1. Powerwash with a HIGH PRESSURE
washer to remove old coating & allow to dry. The integrity of a new
coating will only be as good as the foundation, so it needs to be
sound. 2. Prime. 3. Coat using one to two coats of topcoat as per
specification.
Two popular systems for this are:
SONOGUARD:
primer:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15551
topcoats:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=sg-topcoat
POLYCOAT:
primer
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
Topcoat:
(tan shown)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11676
RE: Gable vent dimensions
Q:
I am looking for a gable vent to fit a 18.25 x 18.25 rough opening .
Is the 18 x18 vent plus the flange or 18 x18 overall?
A:
For an 18x18 Standard Mount gable vent, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9312
The key dimensions of our gable
vents are:
Overall outside face to face: 19 x
19 inches
Opening needed in wall: 18 x 18
(nominal rough opening)
Inside Recess / Louver Area width:
17.5 x 17.5 inches
Distance from Outside Flange Edge
to Recess/Louver area: 3/4 inch all around
Flange Outer Face Width: 1.5 inch
RE: Basement Wall Waterproofing
Q: We are looking for a product
that will provide waterproofing on the interior of a below grade
stone wall? See the attached photos showing discoloration of a stone
where a small amount of water is penetrating an existing wall on the
campus of the University of M.
A: We reviewed your application
with the tech people from BASF, and they suggest the following:
1. Remove all furring strips from
the wall.
2. Power wash, let dry.
3. Apply two coats of ThoroSeal
with Acryl 60 additive, as per instructions.
Here are links to these items and
data sheets:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15871
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15182
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/ac6_tdg.pdf
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_files/tsl_tdg.pdf
This should provide the negative
side waterproofing you are seeking.
RE: Elastomeric Plus RhinoTop.
Q:
Could I seal the cracks as you have instructed at
http://www.bestmaterials.com/deck_coatings.aspx but instead of
Sonoguard use Rhinotop to cover. I understand that Rhinotop does not
waterproof the surface but if it will make the surface somewhat
water resistant and permit walking then it should work fine. You
see, though this is a roof deck, it is sloped and since 1984 when it
was built it has never been sealed with anything. However, due to
acid rain or just plain weathering it has some pocks and cracks in
which, on really wet periods, eg. hurricanes, tropical storms
etc...we will get a drop or two of water seeping through discoloring
the ceiling of the upstairs.
A:
This set of applications for waterproofing a concrete roof.
It uses RoofMate Elastomeric coating, followed by Rhino-Top for
traffic areas. The spec is very comprehensive. United Coatings does
good work in this area and RhinoTop is excellent product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/PDF_Files/RoofMate-concrete.pdf
See page 4, section H.= "To provide
a non-skid walk path on roofs subject to heavy foot traffic,
demarcate walkways by applying an additional coat of ROOF MATE,
using a medium-nap roller or airless spray, at the rate of 1 gallon
per 100 sq. ft. (.4 l/m²) along the designated traffic area. While
the coating is still wet, broadcast 3M #11 ceramic roofing granules
to the point of refusal. UNITED COATINGS' Rhino Top, a non-skid
colored acrylic topping.
The RoofMate and RhinoTop will be a
lot less expensive than a Sonoguard coating. RoofMate Elastomeric
coating is here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/elastomeric-roof-coatings-855.html
RE: Gas vs Electric
Hot Air Welders
Q:
How does Hot Air Welder such Sievert TH1650 Or Leister Varimat
compare to the PNS-4 with the #3334 hot air tip for heat output? One
is rated degrees, CFM, watts; the other in BTU.
I am familiar with electric heat
guns and have used many over the years. I would like to know what to
expect from a propane unit. What is the temperature at the nozzle of
the propane unit?
A:
We checked with tech support at Sievert. They provided the following
information: The propane hot air kit (PNS-4) uses the 3334-90
Promatic Hot Air burner. The heat temperature at the nozzle is 1,200
degrees Fahrenheit. The BTU reference on the burners really refers
to the amount of propane consumed. The TH-1650 will produce
temperatures between 70 - 1,100 degrees Fahrenheit.
What can you expect with the
propane unit?
1) The electric hot air gun has a
variable speed fan. The propane burner will not have as much air
flow but will be constant, and more stable.
2) The electric hot air guns need
time to get up to temp, and a cool down period to protect the
heating elements. The propane unit has instant heat, and will not
need a cool down period, as you can start & stop at will.
3) The PNS-4 Kit is much more
portable, and of course does not need electricity.
FYI, here is a link to types of
propane torches available:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/propane-torche-870.html
RE: Repair of Terra Cotta Roof
Tiles
Q:
I am restoring a historic building with a facade of terra cotta.
Many pieces are damaged and need to be reassembled using a very
strong but hopefully flexible adhesive. We were thinking that a
strong adhesive long life urethane caulk like Vulkam or Sonneborn
might work. Do you have any recommendations?
A:
We have tested several products for this application. We can
recommend these two:
Np1- Redwood Tan Color
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10994
Color Link (actual color will fade
a bit, and as a repair item, will look VERY natural.
http://www.colorcharts.org/ccorg/resources/colors.aspx?companyid=124549&lineid=635&cbn=TY09-DWMK-TUB9
Novalink - Terra Cotta Color
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16330 Link to Data Sheet
and Color:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/images/NovaLink_tech0503.pdf
Both are very good. The Novalink
will last longer in very hot climates.
For the repair, lightly clean the
surfaces to be bonded with a wire brush. Remove dust. Apply sealant
liberally. Don't set pieces too tightly together -- a bit thicker
bondline is better. Also apply underneath the small pieces, so they
bond to the underlying tiles. From the ground, the repairs will be
invisible.
RE: Sonoguard Recoating
Q:
In 2002 I had the front porch of my house (approx 9 sq mtrs)
waterproofed using Sonoguard over an exterior ply surface. The
membrane has silica in it creating a non-slip surface and is still
in
good service order, other than some discoloration due to
weathering.
I would like to renew its appearance and change the color. What
products can be used to achieve my aim? Do I have to re-apply a
Sonoguard product or is there a paint product that will adhere and
be
hardwearing (foot traffic) such as concrete paints etc???
A: The Sonoguard system is
very easy to recoat.
An outline of the process is:
1. Clean (power wash, or use
bleach / tsp and water and scrub well with a stiff bristle broom
then rinse well. let dry thoroughly).
2. Inspect for any needed repairs
(Cracks).
3. Prime or activate surface. You
can use Xylene and lightly wipe with rags, or prime. Many
thoroughly cleaned surfaces required neither. This is an
applicator judgment. Xylene is flammable and hazardous. Proper
safety is required. DO NOT USE ALCOHOL based products in cleaning
of substrate or your tools.
4. Apply Topcoat. Be careful not
apply too thick. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat.
Usually, one new topcoat is enough.
Here is a link to TAN Topcoat. On
this page is a link to the TECHNICAL DATA SHEET, which has more
detailed info:
RE: EPDM Roofing for Trailer
Q:
We would like to know if we can use EPDM roofing membrane for our
trailer roof:
Trailer - Golden Falcon
with rubber roof - purchased 1996.Your EPDM is white color - 60
mils thick and 10 foot wide roll. Could you please let us know if
we can use this type on our trailer?
A:
EPDM roofing can be used over most any existing roof. The product is
adhered. There is adhesive in both water based and solvent based
types, to be compatible with various substrates. The 60 mil thick
white EPDM is a heavy-gauge, durable product and quite suitable for
all climates and situations. Here is a link to the pricing by foot
product for more info (see all the info down this page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
We also have recoat products. These
of course are not as good as a whole new roof, but can be good for a
few years or until the timing for a new roof is right.
RE: BAK WELDER FOR TARPS
Q:
We use 220/240V electricity and the main purpose of these machines
will be to weld tarpaulin in the industrial sector. Please furnish
me with as much possible information, keeping in mind that we are
not the end users but suppliers of stitching machines.
A:
The Bak Laron is a nearly identical copy of the Leister Varimat
(even many interchangeable parts).
Here are the product details:
We would ship these in the
storage box noted. Its very durable.
Shipping: It can be by air, VERY
EXPENSIVE, or ocean (about $500 estimate). Or we can ship to your
exporter in the US, and you can handle shipping (PREFERRED
METHOD). You may also wish to consider this product designed for
tarps:
RE: EPDM VS. TPO MEMBRANE
Q:
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE DIFFERENCE IN THE EPDM MEMBRANE FROM THE
TPO MEMBRANE. ARE THEY COMPARABLE IN PERFORMANCE? DO THEY HANDLE THE
SAME TYPE OF JOBS?
A:
EPDM Benefits: Easy to bend and form, outstanding cold weather
resistance / flexibility, good hail resistance, easy to apply, can
take a lot of movement (like in a RV motor home). No special
equipment is needed for application (welders, generators). Also a
good product for pond liners, patios. Easy to repair. TPO Benefits:
Less expensive on very large jobs (Wal-mart sized). Requires welded
seams (hot
air welder & generator) and special pieces for inside/outside
corners. Cannot be easily bent around curved surfaces. Penetrations
are more complicated to finish.
Many years ago, EPDM had some seam
problems. Today's best practice creates much stronger seams than the
EPDM material itself. (primer, apply Doublestick sealant to seams,
overlay coverstrip on outside of seam).
We recommend EPDM for most
application, except for large commercial ones, where the applicators
are skilled and trained in welding.
EPDM Link
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
TPO Link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Single-Ply-Roofing.aspx
RE: Sealing
an A/C Mounting on Foam Roof
Q:
I had to have a new roof mounted air conditioner added to an office
with a flat, foam roof of a building that is only about 2 years old.
The HVAC guys made the roof penetration and set the unit in but they
do not do the repair. I was going to call a roofer to repair but
thought that I'd ask if you sell the items to do the repair and what
the level of techinical difficulty would be.
A:
We are not certain of the type of repair needed. If you can send a
digital photo we can probably advise you better.
Generally, these items are used:-
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1170
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9149
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16022
These are not hard to use.
RE: Glacier
Snow Guard placement question
Q: Hello. How do I determine the layout and the
number of SnowGuards needed for a steel roof with the following
specifications? Thanks!!!
A: You can reach Technical Support for Glacier at
1-866-766-9427
They should
be able to walk you through the estimates.
Snow loads
are very unpredictable. We like to recommend you put on 3 rows deep
in the areas you know to be a problem, using the ADHESIVE ONLY
method. Then review your roof after a winter and see if you lost any
(snow load exceeded snow guard capacity). Then add 2 more rows in
these areas.
The benefit
if the ADHESIVE only method, is if they are ripped off by excessive
load for the number there, no roof leaks result.
Another
option is the clamp on types. Berger provides a free design and
layout service:
http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.com/services.html
You can order
their items here:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/snow_guards.aspx
RE: Sealants for
Roof Drains
Q: I've been looking at your
website and find it very informative. I'm a do it yourself man on a
limited income. I'm looking for a sealer. The pvc pipe that drains
into my septic tank leaks around the hole where it goes through the
concrete. What type of sealant should I use?
A: We suggest the Sonolastic 150
VLM. Its the toughest most corrosion resistant product.
Before application,
thoroughly clean surfaces till you have fresh surfaces, let dry, and
prime.
As needed, stuff
backer rod into the gap. See the backer rod page for instructions:
BACKER ROD INSTRUCTIONS
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Backer Rod, by the
Foot:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1194
Optional Cleaner:
Eternaclean (or use Toluene)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer: PRIMER-2000.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15803
Sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
RE: Bulk Load Expansion Joint
Sealant for Driveway
Q:
I want to replace the expansion joint in my driveway. Can you tell
me how the 2 gallon bulk sealant is applied and what the coverage
is?
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self
Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL
best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single
component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a
straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as
soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a
depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
Blades | Tuck Point Blades for Grout Grinding Crack Chasing
APPLICATION OF BULK SEALANT USING A
BULK LOAD GUN:
Bulk Load Caulking Tools
We REALLY recommend QUART tubes for
those not experienced with bulk load equipment.
Amount of sealant depends on joint
dimensions. Here is a guide:
Estimating Guide .
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Feel free to Email with any questions or
problems.
RE: POOL DECK JOINT REPAIR
Q: I am starting to re-do the
faded concrete walkway around my swimming pool but first I need to
deal with the cracked and degraded caulking seam between the flat
rock surface next to the pool and the textured concrete walking
surface. I plan to remove the old caulking by cutting it out with a
sharp knife and replacing it with ???either before or after I
recolor the concrete surface. I will appreciate your advise and plan
to purchase the products that you recommend.
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant are "Self
Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the Novalink SL
best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is pre-tinted, single
component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape outside top edges if desired (to form a
straight seal line along the top) and apply sealant. Remove tape as
soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod. Set backer rod to a
depth of 1/2 the average width of the joint near the top.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: Repair of Tear in RV
EPDM Roof
Q:
I have a torn EPDM roof on my RV that is approximately 1 ft long.
What’s the best to repair this? Is the White EPDM Coverstrip tape (6
inch wide) the best product? What other items should I purchase to
complete the repair?
A:
The lowest cost / best repair is as follows:
1. Clean area using a plastic
scrubber (no water, just scrubbing to freshen the surfaces to be
sealed. Or use Eternaclean cleaner and rags and rub well. 2. Prime
using Multipurpose Primer (only prime the area to be sealed, as
primed areas will yellow a bit where exposed to the sun). 3. Peel
and stick EPDM cover strip down. Extend past the tear area about 4
inches either way. 4. Roll the product aggressively to bond sealant
to the old roof area.
Here are links to these item:
Coverstrip and accessories (see bottom of detail page):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16016
You can use a wood roller as well
for small repairs, such as this one:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15008
RE: Sealant for Poured
Concrete Roof
Q:
I am looking for a roof sealant that would work well on a poured
concrete roof. It needs to sustain high temperatures.
A:
Thank you for your inquiry! We have several systems which
will withstand Arizona hot summer suns (we were 115 this week).
Sonoguard deck coating system is
really good. It uses a basecoat, followed by a topcoat. If you are
not trafficing over the roof area, aggregate layer is not needed.
Topcoat surfaces are available in several colors. If you want a
white finish deck then Polycoat PC440 base and Polyglaze 400 white is
good. We also have some really nice white marble roofing granules
which can be applied to the top layer as an added heat reflective /
tuff coat layer.
Here are links to these products:
Sonoguard:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=14930
Polycoat PC440 base:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=10686
Polyglaze 400 white topcoat:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11193
White granules (for flat roofs).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11933
RE: Concrete Driveway Joint Sealant
Q:
Can you help me out with this problem? I have a concrete
driveway and walkway, poured 15 years ago. There is ten-test between
the brick wall and concrete sidewalk. The ten-test is sinking, and
water has gotten under concrete and it moved slightly last winter, a
lot of frost. Also some saw cuts have opened and water gets in base
under driveway. I would like to seal along the house and in the saw
cuts but the gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2". Is there a caulking I can
buy that will fill in and stop further water damage? Please advise.
A:
The products designed for concrete expansion joint sealant
are "Self Leveling Sealants". There are several types. I like the
Novalink SL best, as it will seal joint up to 2" of width, is
pre-tinted, single component and quick curing. Here is a link:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1151
Before applying, you clean the
joint, add backer rod, tape edges if desired and apply sealant.
Remove tape as soon as materials start to set.
Here is a link to the backer rod:
You should use CLOSED CELL type of backer rod.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/Backer_Rod.aspx
Joint cleaning can be done with
wire brush or other power tools. Professional applicator use
grinding blades like these:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1180
Do a small test area first to
practice your technique. Email me with any questions or problems.
RE: swimming pool deck-to-pool
Q: We are looking for a sealant
such as mentioned in the subject line above. This is needed for the
pool tile to the coping on the deck. I hope that is correct. We have
to apply while water is in the pool and up in a 45º corner. Can you
help? Please reply ASAP. Thank you.
A:
We have tested several sealants on my own pool for this application.
The best long term performing product is Sonolastic 150 VLM. It
outperforms regular joint grout, stays clean, is easy to clean and
easy to apply. Here is a link to this product:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
If you want something which looks
textured, the TX1 is good. Cured, it looks like grout (especially
the off-white which looks like aged white grout.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/tx1-textured-polyurethane-sealant-1089.html
But this chemistry does not seem as
long lasting as the Sonolastic 150.
RE: waterproofing retaining wall
behind tennis court
Q:
I am looking for a waterproofing system for the poured retaining
wall surrounding my new tennis court. The biggest problem is where
the 4 foot poured concrete wall sits on the slab. I am at the
stage
where we need to apply a material that will keep water from coming
through the seem and wall itself. Then we will complete the French
drain below the slab. Please advise as to what products work best.
The wall is 4 foot high on the back and 25 feet more on both sides
and
then tapers down to grade at center of court. I am guessing that
the
sq. footage is around 500.
A: Here is some information
to think about on a similar problem -- basement waterproofing:
Waterproofing an existing
basement is a complex project with many options. Since we can't be
there to see first hand the leak areas, construction, hill
terrain, soil, exterior landscape and exterior drainage systems,
we can only provide generalized answers. Also, budget, skills of
repair person, how permanent of fix you want, odor during repairs
and interior decorating issues affects the options.
SO, I will try and answer your inquiry in phases.
First, there is no permanent 100% waterproof system which can be
applied from the inside. The problem in some cases is that the
concrete is a sponge, absorbs water and causes corrosion of the
reinforcement bars and steel. This is turn results in fracture and
decomposition of the concrete and long term failure. The
prevention is to dig around the outside down to the foundation
footing and apply waterproof layers and joint sealants to the
outside, preventing the water from getting into the concrete and
joints. The floor is more difficult. It must be torn up, have
waterproofing membranes laid down, then re-poured on top of this.
All of which is WAY to expensive.
What can be done to greatly extend the life of and existing
basement, and get rid of the water and moisture?
Here are some processes to consider:
EXTERIOR:
1. Grade the soil outside the high sides of the house to slope
away from the house at least 20 feet.
2. Along the newly graded slope area, at least at the bottom end
of the slope, bury perforated drain pipe covered with stainless
screen into a 1 foot wide x 2 foot deep rock/gravel trench. The
"French drain" pipe will collect much of the water and drain it
away from the house.
3. Bury a heavy duty waterproofing membrane at least 10 feet wide,
down in the topsoil of the graded area. Connect and seal the
waterproofing membrane to the foundation of the house up above the
top of the soil line.
EPDM 45 mil rubber membranes
4. Option: Refill soil area with CLAY soil, which is not so water
absorbent.
5. Apply roof gutters to the house. Then have the downspouts
connect to drain pipes which take the water well away from the
house, and below the foundation grade.
The above actions will get rid of MUCH of the water, but not all.
Depending on the soil, rain, water table and melting snow, the
soil can still become saturated, and these actions may be less
effective. But in many situations, this works quite well.
INTERIOR:
1. Strip down the basement walls and floors. Remove all existing
sealants and caulks.
2. Power wash surfaces, if needed.
3. Allow to thoroughly dry (use fans and such as needed). This could
take a couple weeks.
4. If coating requires, Prime all concrete surfaces joints and cracks using penetrating
waterproofing primer, such as:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9358
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15025
5. Repair all cracks and decomposed concrete. A good waterproof
repair mortar is Emaco GP:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16102
or the Emecole items:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?Manufacturer=160
6. Apply a negative side waterproofing product such
as THOROSEAL cementitious waterproofing.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16580
or
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16582
7. Use proper SEALANT on the joints and cracks:
Floor joints:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11161
Wall, Corner Joints and cracks:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15150
8. Install adequate permanent basement ventilation, if it does not
already exist.
IF your conditions are such that above does not 100% work, then
you must resort to the excavation and exterior wall and floor
waterproofing methods. A flood drain and exterior "french drains"
along the base of the wall footing should be installed as well.
RE: RV Roof Replacement Procedure
Q:
I have some roof damage on my camper it is a 1995 model 36footer
,the damage is pretty bad looks like to me its been leaking
quite sometime but we don't want to get rid of it i need to
replace the whole cover with rubber roof but i don't know how to
start it , i have to replace some the wood under it too about 4
to 5 ft to thee rear and maybe back wall do you have some ideas
besides replace the whole camper.
A:
Here is the detailed process for replacement of your RV roof.
Overview of Application
Process: (after stripping and repairing substructure)
1. Clean rooftop surface well (broom then rags). (dry clean only
- no water or chemicals)
2. Load material on roof.
EPDM Membrane (31 feet):
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15884
3. Unfold EPDM membrane and position material (sometimes two
sections are easier to apply than one big one.
4. Make any cuts needed to clear penetrations such as vents etc.
Final position EPDM membrane.
5. Fold half of EPDM membrane back on itself. Wipe BOTH exposed
surfaces with a clean rag to remove dust.
6. Evenly apply bonding adhesive using roller to a thickness of
about 12 mils (50-60 sqft/gallon) to the base and EPDM membrane.
Allow solvent to flash off until adhesive is sticky but not
wet..
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=16013
7. Slowly fold back the first half of roofing into the adhesive.
8. As you go, use a stiff floor broom, brush the top surface of the
roofing to remove any bubbles and seat material into adhesive.
9. Repeat 5-8 after folding the second half of EPDM membrane
back of the side you just adhered.
10. Trim EPDM membrane material around penetrations (you
generally run the EPDM up the side of the penetration). Apply
adhesive around penetrations and adhere membrane.
11. Repeat 10 for edges areas.
12. If your EPDM membrane went on in two or more pieces you will
have a seam to deal with. The seams are finished using primer
and seam tape (double sided sticky butyl rubber sealant). The
overlapping seams are designed with about 3 inches of overlap.
Clean seam area (all surfaces to be bonded) using cleaner and
rags. Both sides are primed. Primer dries in about 5-10 minutes.
Then you place the bottom portion of the peel and stick tape.
Then remove the top covering and fold the covering EPDM flap
into the top of the seam tape. Then roll in the surface to
firmly seal the materials together.
ALTERNATIVELY, you can use
Eternabond DOUBLESTICK. It does not require the primer step, but
you need to use ETERNACLEAN first on the surfaces. Here are
these items (see bottom page of link for related items):
AFTER SEAMS glued together,
clean surfaces with Eternaclean, then attach top cover tape over
seam (yes you are creating a double seal):
LINKS:
EPDM Roofing Page:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/EPDM-Roofing.aspx
Installation Video (Click on the VIDEO movie):
Installation Overview
RE: Torn EPDM roof repair
Q:
I have a motor home with a Dicor rubber roof that is ten
years old. It had a small air picket up front by the front air
vent. After driving through a very large wind storm the pocket
has grown very large. Can I purchase some new glue from your
store and pull up the front vent, place the glue in and then put
the vent back down?
A:
REPAIR OF TEAR IN RV EPDM ROOF (or fixing loose areas):
1. Make a few small slits along damaged area into good area
using a razor knife so that you can peel back the tear to
clean under it.
2. Clean BOTH the underlying roof surface AND underside of
EPDM material well. Use a scrubber and Eternaclean cleaner.
Let dry. If you cannot clean well, use Eternaprime primer on
both surfaces. Let cure about an hour.
Cleaner:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15748
Primer:
http://bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?KeyWords=eternaprime
3. Apply thin beads of M1 adhesive sealant OR Eternabond
DOUBLESTICK tape, in the area UNDER the EPDM roofing materials
which need to be re-stuck down. For the M1 sealant, spread out
material (with a notched trowel or similar). Reapply EPDM
Roofing to surface and walk on / squeegee with hand or roller
to remove any bubbles.
For the DoubleStick, follow
the instructions on the video tape link below:
8. Inspect and repair other
cracks in the roof with Eternabond as above. Check carefully
around corners, edges and along the metal sealing strip areas.
RE: Scupper Repair
Q:
I need some advice Installing new scupper the existing roof is
10+ years old. I think my best bet is to install the flat
intake on top of the existing roof "not the correct way" can
you recommend a primer or cleaner should I try Eternabond or go
with fiber mesh and primer ? Which tar if I use fiber glass
mesh. The scupper I am buying is your RND 4x12. Thanks for any
help!
A:
The Eternabond products are compatible with all the roofing
materials.
I would consider this:
1. Clean up as well as
possible. Wire brush all rust away.
2. Use ETERNAPRIME on
surfaces.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=11025
3. Apply Eternabond WEBSEAL.
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1023
4. Apply a topcoat sealant
over Webseal. Recently, some roofers have used a layer of
Novalink for this with good results. It was finished flat and
smooth with a putty knife (think of it as a permanent wet
patch material).
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?categoryid=1158
RE: concrete crack repair and
seal
Q:
I need help in ordering a concrete caulk. I have long cracks in
my concrete that comes up to my house. What product should I
order to close up the cracks so when water puddles close to the
house, it doesn't wick up the wall and into my house?
A:
Although we cannot be there to see the exact situation, the
general proper repair for this is to grind cracks with a
V-shaped grinding tool (called a crack chaser), clean cracks,
stuff lower gap with backer rod, then fill with sealant.
Blade information:
Blades for Crack Chasing
Backer Rod:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=9616
Sealant:
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1068
Alternatively, you could just
clean and caulk joint (fill surface of crack with sealant). This
would not have the expansion and contraction shaped needed for
real long term survival, but MAY work well. It really depends on
the amount of movement in the concrete from season to season
(what ever caused the cracks to begin with). Alternative
caulking (not self leveling): (choose limestone for light gray
and Aluminum gray for darker gray color)
http://www.bestmaterials.com/SearchResult.aspx?CategoryID=1067
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